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Unread 12-19-2007, 11:43 PM
jsp1001's Avatar
jsp1001 jsp1001 is offline
Point Dume
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 169
Wolchulsan Hyeongjaebong Ridge Route

Here's the beta for the Hyeongjaebong Ridge Route, as some people may want to supplement their plastic with some natural stuff this weekend.

general orientation: looking toward the Cheonwhangsan area from the parking lot as a circle of peaks with barampokpo in the middle, Hyeongjaebong Ridge is on the right hand side, starting at about the 5 o'clock position, and going counterclockwise to its last pitch at about the 2 o'clock position, then cutting into the center of this circle down past barampokpo in the center, back to the parking lot (6 o'clock position).

est. time for a team of two: 2 hrs. 30 min.
equipment: 1 rope, 3 mid-range cams, 6 draws, 3 slings
highest difficulty level: 5.6

approach: Go up 15 min. from the Cheonhwangsa parking lot to a crossing in the road. Take the right side which goes toward barampokpo (wind falls), cross the steel bridge, and look for a "chulip geumji (do not enter)" sign on the right side of the trail. Behind this sign is the old trail to barampokpo. Follow this faint trail about 10 minutes to the start of the ridge route.

protection: good due to bolts and available trees

other comments: comfortable shoes, since much walking

p1 (15m, 5.5): climb up some good holds and a dihedral crack, and secure to the tree at the top. walk 200 m. to the next pitch

p2 (40 m, 5.5): a nice face climb with five bolts and two bolts at the top to secure.

p3 (40 m, 5.6, first peak): starts with a chimney on the left and face/slab on the right (choose one). walk 100 m. to the top of this peak.

p4 (25 m, 5.4, second peak): easy face. walk 30 m. to the next pitch.

p5 (10 m, 5.3, third peak): get on the small boulder in front, then jump to the bigger boulder behind it, to the top, where there is a pair of rappel bolts on top

rappel: using the double rappel bolts at the top of the third peak, rappel down 15 m., then look for the tree with slings on it, use a sling on the tree to rappel down another 20 m. to the descent trail

descent trail: continue in the same direction until you pass a clearing (gwangamtuh); the trail eventually joins the hiking trail which goes down to barampokpo, and continues parallel to the stream to the starting point

camping: there is camping area just above the ticket office

(excerpted and translated from Ridge Climbing Guide)
Joe Park
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Unread 12-20-2007, 01:16 AM
shanja's Avatar
shanja shanja is offline
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Daejeon
Posts: 1,386
OK then, I'll bring my trad gear. I might or might not be climbing with KA...her call. Mike, you in? We could do it as a three person team, or maybe 2 teams of two. Minimal packs, down jackets and chocolate!
quem deus perdere vult, primus dementat
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Unread 12-20-2007, 08:05 AM
mil-mil's Avatar
mil-mil mil-mil is offline
tinker bell
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Alabama, soon to be back in Korea
Posts: 322
I'm deffinetly in. I will be heading to Seoul Friday night to pick up some of my gear and then catch a express bus down to gwangju saturday morning. so i would say that Sunday would be the good day to try to attempt this or monday or tuesday if any of you guys have those days off. I will have off threw wednesday so if anyone is intrested in any other mountain misadventures let me know.
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Unread 12-20-2007, 01:42 PM
Goulash's Avatar
Goulash Goulash is offline
Ground hugger
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yeosu Jeollanamdo
Posts: 116
Note about Wolchulsan

This is a note I got from a friend, James, who lives at Yeongam (Wolchulsan):

Just to let you know, we climbed Shiribong last weekend and the lack of sun shut us out quite a bit. The best climbing window for Shiribong is between about 11:00 and about 13:30. Outside of those times the rock gets really cold. As far as the trad routes on Maebong are concerned, they are on the north east facing slopes and don't get much sun action during the day. Although I haven't climbed on Maebong for a while, my feeling is that it will be a cold challenge.



Just thought I'd let you know, it might be a bit chilly up there. Bring warm stuff!

English Teacher, Photographer & Aussie gone walkabout.
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Unread 12-20-2007, 02:46 PM
mil-mil's Avatar
mil-mil mil-mil is offline
tinker bell
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Alabama, soon to be back in Korea
Posts: 322
I'm in for cold and challenging, last weekend i ended up climbing Chuinard B/Insu a, at insubong, threw the ice and snow. Are you up for it Jake? Also Jake what day are you wanting to do this on? Do you have Monday off? do we think the weather will be good enough to do it on Sunday? or should i make a speed run up to seoul to grab my gear friday night and head back down to gwangju the same night so we can hit it up on saturday?
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Unread 12-21-2007, 10:10 AM
mil-mil's Avatar
mil-mil mil-mil is offline
tinker bell
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Alabama, soon to be back in Korea
Posts: 322
Jake. Sunday looks liek it is going to be clear.... I say we head for the rock around 9am and try to get into that good window. Is KA going to be climbign with us? I have a partner coming down with me so we can either do a 3 man team or 2 2 man teams depending on KA or if there are an other people that are intrested i am sure we can work something out.
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