how hard do you climb?
I'm somewhat often asked this, in the form of 'what grade?' I don't really care much, because I'm not competitive. Koreans climbers tend to be more competitive. Today, however, I climbed with the owner of a gym south of Seoul. I've climbed there a couple times before and really like the place. The issue of grade was brought up. The owner doesn't know Hueco (V) grades, but says he climbs 5.11d/12a lead. This confused me, since bouldering with him I estimate he can climb V7. Most Korean climbers dedicate their training primarily to endurance. So if he does the same, and his endurance is strong, then he should be redpointing at least 5.12d. He seems to be intelligent and kind, so I don't know how to interpret. I judge he means sport climbing, too. But I wonder, when native Korean climbers ask about grade, do they mean redpoint or onsight?