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  #1  
Unread 04-25-2006, 09:03 AM
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Ricky Ricky is offline
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What is the proper way to fall?

How do you fall properly / minimize injury? I'm sure I've been told this in Korean and I probably just said "yes, yes", though I understood nothing.
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  #2  
Unread 04-25-2006, 09:14 AM
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skinsk skinsk is offline
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Depends on the route. In general, for slabs push backwards (fall forward and you'll scrape the rock. ouch). . . serious overhangs, drop into the air! Be aware when you climb of any ledges or flakes that you might hit or get a foot stuck behind, etc. Be aware where the rope is (ie, not underr your leg) so it doesn't flip you around (you never want to fall head-first!)

Ideally when you fall, your legs will just push off the rock. . .

Since you might not get to choose your fall, keep an eye out for potential problems as you climb. An alert belayer can help (i.e. notice if the rope is caught on sommething).
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  #3  
Unread 04-25-2006, 12:53 PM
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Pedro de Pacas Pedro de Pacas is offline
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A common mistake for novice fallers is to grab the rope. Not recommended.
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  #4  
Unread 04-25-2006, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro de Pacas
A common mistake for novice fallers is to grab the rope. Not recommended.
Ya. Don't grab the quickdraw either. You could easily injured your fingers that way. I've both grabbed the rope and the quickdraw before.
Actually I've done a lot of things I shouldn't have.
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  #5  
Unread 04-25-2006, 05:27 PM
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Yeah. . . just as you shouldn't grab the rope when being lowered. . . (though obviously it's not quite as bad as when you are falling! And since you never know when a fall might occur, it is never, never a good idea to put a finger through a bolt! Even using monos or tight pockets, or jamming your feet in a crack, be sure all body parts will come out easily if you fall. Trad climbers can and do get flipped when their feet get stuck!
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  #6  
Unread 04-25-2006, 07:04 PM
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Another trick to falling more safely/ comfortably is to have good clear communication. It starts way before you even get on the route. Make 100% sure you and your belayer(s) all use/ know the same climb signals. I've seen some nasty accidents occur when confusion reigned over what someone "said". Check out Craigs list on climbing calls in another thread here, and practice them.
When you get to a section that looks/ feels/ is tough, tell your belayer "watch me!"...and should you have the luxury of choosing the milli-second of popping off, yell out "falling!". The earlier your belay knows about the fall (or likelihood thereof, the better prepared he/she can be to ease your descent).
Totally be aware of the routes objective dangers from a falling point of view, that horn you cranked on to get up might just kebab you on the way down, and think of where you might swing should you pop. OFTEN it isn't straight down, but in an arc. Helmets are great for those moments when you pendulum into a wall on a totally solid, rock-never-falls, no need for helmet type routes
If you are ice climbing, and fall, it's usually messy. Blood and gore. Sharp steel and soft flesh make uneasy bedfellows. So never, NEVER NEVER climb with your face directly behind an axe. It's called the lobotomy move for a reason. Keep the rope and pro slightly off to one side of your climbing route if possible to avoid your crampons slicing the rope should you slip. And bury your face in your chest, and extend your axe wielding arms away from you as best you can. You might also think about using a full-body harness or chest harness add-on if you are carrying a heavy load...this can prevent the diaster of flipping upside down...but has been reported to tweak backs (rarely).
If you are falling on a snow slope, there are 4 main scenarios to consider, and you should practice the emergency moves for each one before going into such terrain. 1Chest down, feet first. 2Chest up feet first. Chest down head first. 4. Chest up head first (the worst scenario!).
Each one needs a different series of QUICK moves to arrest a fall. Look them up in Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills, or any of a number of other good texts on mountaineering...maybe someone can scan/link/post the pics here???
Climb safe!
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  #7  
Unread 04-26-2006, 12:29 PM
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well, the best way to learn how to fall is to practice falling.
find a vertical to slightly overhanging wall with good protection and some more or less easy routes that everybody can climb. make sure that there are no ledges or other hazards in your way and backup your last bolt. a lockingbiner might be good, too.
you might start the fallingsession with your feat near the bolt, anything closer is not recommended. if you are comfortable with that jump from a higher point and ask your belayer to give you a more dynamic belay.
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  #8  
Unread 04-26-2006, 04:18 PM
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As I've said before....Practicing a fall is like trying to wax your own bikini line.
You know what's coming, and it's up to you to jump, or tear the strip, but the suspense is so terrifying. I always count to three, and then fail to jump/pull bikini wax strip. It makes the whole situation 10x scarier.
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  #9  
Unread 04-26-2006, 04:33 PM
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I think anyone who waxes her bikini line should be able to practice falling, as even (especially?) when the former is done correctly, a lot of pain is involved! That overhangiong 10b at Halmae would be a good place to practice falling-- next time, I'll belay and lock off if you want. . .
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  #10  
Unread 04-26-2006, 06:01 PM
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Well.....

Thanks...but I think I'd rather wax my bikini than practice falling. Maybe I just need to find a course that has a good overhang, but is way too difficult. Then I will inevitably fall, and I can avoid having to count to three.
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