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Unread 11-27-2011, 01:11 AM
blacklotus blacklotus is offline
Jiri Jammer
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: n/a
Posts: 47
how hard do you climb?

I'm somewhat often asked this, in the form of 'what grade?' I don't really care much, because I'm not competitive. Koreans climbers tend to be more competitive. Today, however, I climbed with the owner of a gym south of Seoul. I've climbed there a couple times before and really like the place. The issue of grade was brought up. The owner doesn't know Hueco (V) grades, but says he climbs 5.11d/12a lead. This confused me, since bouldering with him I estimate he can climb V7. Most Korean climbers dedicate their training primarily to endurance. So if he does the same, and his endurance is strong, then he should be redpointing at least 5.12d. He seems to be intelligent and kind, so I don't know how to interpret. I judge he means sport climbing, too. But I wonder, when native Korean climbers ask about grade, do they mean redpoint or onsight?
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Unread 11-28-2011, 10:00 PM
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skinsk skinsk is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jochiwon (Sejong City)
Posts: 2,552
Always a tough question-- though Koreans, unlike some westerners, don't tend to through out the hardest grade they've ever top-dogged on the pink route at a gym^^ You could always ask him, as Koreans use English for "Onsight" and "Redpoint." I've found many Koreans tend to understate their grade, while everyone else in the gym will overestimate their grade. . . the truth, alas. . . is. . . basically irrelevant (to me) as long as they can belay/spot:-)
"If you can't do something well, you might as well learn to enjoy doing it poorly." -- from a de-motivational poster, but I find it oddly liberating!
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Unread 12-15-2011, 09:26 AM
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griddable griddable is offline
climbing the grid
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kangbuk-gu, near Suyu station
Posts: 36
i think they usually refer to redpoint, as when I'm asked they'll often ask me what I redpoint, rather than what grade I climb.

Truth is, I don't really know myself, oh well!
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Unread 01-04-2012, 11:09 PM
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choss monkey choss monkey is offline
send train
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seoul
Posts: 330
I usually climb fully erect. I find that viagra helps.
Abstract Erosion
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Unread 01-04-2012, 11:39 PM
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Cowboy Cowboy is offline
...lost again...
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Osan AB (Songtan)
Posts: 26
I'm still trying to figure it out. Endurance is "expected", in my experience. It seems as if the crux move has more to the grade than the overall route strung together.

I guess what I mean, if the most difficult single move is a 5.10a; that's the route...even if there are several of the same grade point in the sequence that goes on for many moves in a row, which would up the grade because of transition from one move to the next.

Maybe I'm off my rocker, haven't put enough kimchee in the system...or I'm just weak.
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Unread 01-05-2012, 10:20 PM
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choss monkey choss monkey is offline
send train
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seoul
Posts: 330
the extra point of contact can really help
Abstract Erosion
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Unread 01-05-2012, 10:46 PM
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craigle-rock craigle-rock is offline
I was my doppelganger
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: mullae
Posts: 28
Choss Monkey has a few good points— mostly: "viagra helps". Seriously, you get hard. And as Cowboy says, "Endurance is "expected". Both of them wooood agree with each other in this forum. But really, when Griddable said, "i think they usually refer to redpoint", I came to my conclusion: I think the endurance redpoint hit home. I'm going with viagra for redpoint endurance. but to answer your question, I climb really really really ****/rock hard. that's right. that hard. that's how hard i climb.
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