Crag Description
This is a granite, multi-pitch aid/sport/trad area, located in a beautiful, pristine (ok, so we are in Korea) location. The climbing is very slabby and somewhat runout, but there are also some nice cracks. I have yet to fully explore the area, but there are aprox. 10 multipitch routes, up to 162 meters in length. I went on a Sunday and saw no-one. All the routes appear to have been re-bolted recently, but the anchors are typical Korean anchors (clamped wire with large hooks). The rock is very textured and solid.
Climbing Grades: 6 - 11
Type: Rock Climb Style: Trad+Sport
Safety Concerns
Some of the pitches feel very run-out, and the anchors are Korean clamped cable. Other than that, it seems alright.
Recommended Equipment
10 draws will do you, but it would be good to have a rack of cams. A pair of etriers would help for the aid sections.
Additional Comments
If you want a detailed topo of the area, check out the orange Korean climbing guide. There is a nice camping area near the beginning of the trail for aprox. 2-3 tents. There are no bathrooms. There is no running water, but there is a very clear stream just below. Make sure to filter or boil before using it.
Directions
From the north, take the south Jecheon exit (Highway 55), and take road 82 towards Geumseong. Continue past Geumseong until you see a sign for Muamsa (a temple). Turn off the main road, and follow the signs to Muamsa. You will pass a fish hatchery and a small resevoir. Just past the resevoir will be a parking area. There are some rustic toilets here and some maps. Continue, either by car or foot, for 1.3 kms, passing through an ewok village (yes, I am serious), until you see two large cairns on the right side of the road. The trail is directly across from these cairns, on the RIGHT side of the road. The area has recently been "manicured" and there are many tree limbs on the ground, so trail finding can be a bit difficult. At any rate, if you cross the stream, you should see a faint trail working left up the ridge. Follow this trail until you reach the rock, which is quite visible from the road.(see the pictures in the 'maps' section) From the south, take the north Danyang exit (Highway 55), turn left, then turn left again to go under the highway. This will take you up and down a curvy road, which will end at road 82. Turn right and follow this road until you see a sign for Muamsa. Turn right and follow the directions above.
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