Crag Description
High friction granite with plenty of features and a killer view (well, in the event it is clear. . . otherwise the mist hugs the mountains like a watercolor. . . ) Slabs, faces, cracks, chimneys, roofs. . . most routes have it all. Eleven 2-8 pitch climbs are established on the SW face. The easiest 1st pitches are 20m 5.4 (barely and unprotected) 60 degree slabs. . . but the General is best for those who want a moderate-hard multi-pitch adventure. The easiest way to the summit is the ridgeline, which includes 5.1-5.7 pitches. Plenty of bail options. . . if you go light, one rope will, according to the Kolon Climbing School manager, enable you to lower below the prominent notch onto the hiking trail to the left of the cave. The harder climbs are to the right of the cave. Route guide and info can be found at the Pisandae Mountain Shelter just below the cliff.
Climbing Grades: 4 - 12
Type: Rock Climb Style: Traditional
Safety Concerns
This is the mountains and weather systems move in and out quickly year round. Some of the routes are committing. Have a plan or two for retreat; 2 ropes if practical are best. Wear a helmet, there is lose rock and groups above could drop things (that said, it wasn't too crowded when I've been there). Other considerations include water and sunblock (it's partly in the sun) jacket/raincoat headlamp food as it could get long, dark, cold or rainy.
Recommended Equipment
One set of cams and nuts would give you plenty of options. Lots of long slings to prevent drag and sling trees. Two ropes idea for standard rappel.
Additional Comments
Everything is 30 minutes down the trail at Pisandae shelter and shops. . . Classic routes and mostly stellar rock/pro with steep but easy to find approach and interesting lines. Rock is sharp so taping for hand cracks might make it more enjoyable. Some experience on multi-pitch trad recommended.
Directions
The general is the prominent peak on the left side when looking across the river from Pisandae rest area/mountain hut, about 40 minutes up a nice trail from the entrance to the park. Stay in this hut and you'll be sure to meet climbers. Cross the bridge just past the shelter (to your left if you're facing the cliffs) then take the trail that heads up to Janggun Cave . . . or left or right to the base of the climbs (pretty obvious). The staging area is adjacent to the hiking trail so take care on the first pitch. . . and be prepared for some encouragement and an audience. Routes are pretty new; cracks take gear of all types, plenty of trees to sling, some comfy (and some less so) belays. Routefinding is easy enough if you study the photos at the shelter. If in doubt, follow the white arrows on some of the pitches. Some variations are possible, so grades can sometimes be flexible.
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