Crag Description
Four sketchy routes put up in 1980 on the left wall of this "named" rock, one of the 8 scenic sights of Hwayang Valley. The middle routes are 10a, and on either side is a 5.9; all are 15 meters. 2 bolts/fixed gear (one on the far right 9) supplement the trad gear needed to protect the cracks. Vertical rock with some vertical and horizontal cracks, etc. . . very rainy when I was in the valley, so I didn't get too close or too good pictures:( Nearby (in particular when you cross the 2nd bridge) and scattered throughout the valley are numerous short bluffs that can be climbed with trad gear and/or top-roped. Also, several good boulders (clean; good top-outs or vertical traverses; decent landings) were apparent, with more possibilities if you leave the paved trail to explore.
Climbing Grades: 9 - 10
Type: Rock Climb Style: Traditional
Safety Concerns
Old routes; potentially loose rock; a precarious river crossing (depends on river level. . . but sport sandals recommended) or a steep hike up an around if you cross the bridge (in which case good approach shoes). . . nearby routes are generally easy access. The river is safe in places, but there are deep spots and it has the potential for high water. Heed the signs and locals-- there are plenty of spots to cool off, or wash off.
Recommended Equipment
Bring what you've got. . . a 50 meter rope will do. Some horizontal cracks to plug as well as vertical.
Additional Comments
Enough reason to bring gear if you're heading here-- not so much a climbing destination if you're not local, but the valley is beautiful and clean, and the river becomes a summer playground . Plenty of min-baks, stores and restaurants as well as a temple and cultural sights. Could be combined with a trip to Ul Bawi just outside the exit(entrance) at the far end of the valley. W1600 entrance fee, W4000 parking for a car.
Directions
402-2 Hwayang-ri, Cheongcheon-myeon, Goesan-gun, Chungcheongbuk-do From the N (Seoul) Jungbu Expressway 35 and exit at Jeungpyeong I.C, Jeungpyeong-eup -Take local road 592 east which becomes National Road 37 at Buheung. Go right on 32 and follow signs to Hwayang Valley (Hwayang-dong Valley). From Cheongju, head E of 512, heading right on 32 through Miwon and 12k more to Gubang. A right on 575 and a left on 32 at Cheongcheon to the Valley. Via public transportation: from Cheongju busses leave the Inner-city Terminal for Hwayang-dong Valley, 32k east, and take about an hour. The road through the valley is flat and bricked. . . making the 3ks entrance to exit an easy walk. You can drive about 1/3 of the way--if you are staying at one of the local minbaks (they extend from the entrance to around Chaeunsa). . . putting you minutes from Haksodae. A giant sign, picnic area and bridge mark Haksodae. A comprehensive contour map of Songnisan, of which HWAYANG VALLEY is a small part, can be found at: http://www.npa.or.kr/songni/eng/nature/images/songni_map.gif The red writing below "Songnisan" is Hwayang Valley. Haksodae is on this map.
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