Ulsanbawi (Gangwon-Do)

Rock Climb



Crag Description

Granite slabs, chimneys, cracks, overhangs. About 20 routes, though many are aid (mostly in the form of bolt ladders, almost all A0, but up to A2). Great friction! Can be very rough on the hands and any other exposed skin! Right of the orange stairs leading up Ulsanbawi is a crack system (5.8) then a prominant offwidth crack (5.11) and a crack-to-face (5.9) that lead to either a 2nd pitch 5.9 crack system or bolt ladder (AO). route continues up slabs/crack/chinmeys/via obvious headwall right. Numerous variations include bolt ladders, hand cracks and offwidths. Some old slings; wide, gear eating cracks, but mostly solid looking bolts. Can be long in the sun, especially if you plan to do the multipitches.

Climbing Grades: 9 - 12

Type: Rock Climb Style: Traditional

Safety Concerns

Some definite runout in places (on the other hand, some of the bolt ladders are quite close), lose rock and other climbers dropping things. Some slings could be replaced. Wear a helmet! Long sleeves and long pants will save skin, as will taping hands/ankles. . .

Recommended Equipment

Bring what you've got; cams and friends of all sizes, aliens to that #5, would be especially useful. Bring lots of slings of various lengths, a knife, some cord or webbing to replace brittle slings. Aiders and hooks if you want to do the aid (often necessary to connect lines), although you could improvise with some extra slings. Two ropes definitely make rapelling and/or retreating easier!

Additional Comments

Food, water, souvenirs are available a short ways down the path. You can dine with an awesome view of the entire rock. Beware the "easy" grades--unless you are really comfortable on trad/aid!

Directions

Take the trail to Ulsanbawi, clearly marked from the park entrance (on your right past the temple).

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