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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas

Daemosan Submitted on June 4th, 2014 by jhalpin Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeonggi-Do City: Seoul
Park: n/a Rating: 5.8 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 5469 Photos: 2 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 1 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
KotRi started rebolting this crag in the spring of 2014. Currently 5 of the 8 anchors have been replaced along with the hangers on 30 of about 50 bolts. There are a total of 9 routes including the crack that traverses half of the crag and shares and anchor with one of the vertical routes. The shorter section on the right is in the 5.8-5.9 range. The crack is a 5.9. The far right climb is about 5.10b. I haven't climbed the rest so I couldn't say.


Directions
From Gaepo Station go out exit 7 and walk south toward the mountain. Cross the road through the tunnel and you will find the trail heading up the mountain. You pretty much just keep heading up until you see the crag. Google Map Coordinates: 37.475552, 127.076157


Safety Concerns
The rock on the route to the far left is a bit chossy. Don't climb the routes that have not been rebolted yet.


Gear to Bring
12 draws, a 30m rope, and something to create an anchor with so you do not wear out the permanent anchors by repeatedly lowering on them


Additional Comments
Nice and shady. Nobody climbs here at all so you will have it all to yourself.



Comment added by sladecl on July 8th, 2014
8July2014-Great directions! Visited this area this weekend. One man mentioned to us that just recently there was a sign stating the area was closed to rock climbing. This sign is nowhere to be found. the rock is pretty dirty with cobwebs and sediment. If you bring a brush and clothes that can handle it, i say its a good day. and bug spray. remember the bug spray.

Comment added by njcarrea on September 6th, 2014
Wow... Hated it. Sign that says "no climbing" is in place. All but 4 hangers have been removed and most bolts have been removed. Minimal protectable features. The "permanent anchors" are not up to American/European standards. If you choose to set a top rope, walk around the right side and bring a cordellette and a spirol. I set my anchor on a tree 15 feet back from the edge of the wall and bolts with no heads on the edge of the rock wrecked my rope. Not much climbing there so I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Not worth the w3000 to get to the trail head (better off saving your money for Songtan Sally) and sure as he'll not with the 30+ min hike up the trail. If you have climbed anywhere else you will be disappointed.

Comment added by njcarrea on September 6th, 2014
Better option is Gwanggyo Lake Park.

Comment added by Trent on February 17th, 2016
As of late fall 2015, there are no climbing signs and all bolts have been removed or chopped.



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