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Go Back   KOTR Forums > Climbing > Climbing Chat

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  #1  
Unread 06-03-2009, 07:27 AM
TKells09's Avatar
TKells09 TKells09 is offline
Travis
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 28
You call that a safe bolt?

So here i start a new thread with the intentions of raising awareness of certain areas in Korea where the bolts and equipment just might not be up to par with KOTRers safety record. Here I invite anyone and everyone to post pictures of some of the shady/dangerous/unsafe equipment he/she has found in his/her travels throughout Korea. This is not a bashing session but rather a reminder to double check not only YOUR equipment but the equipment on the wall you will use BEFORE clipping/tying in. I know i personally have had rusty bolts break on me and it's a pretty scary experience.

After a couple recomendations to post this on the site i present to you an excerpt from Masian Opera House. You can see the rock is completely undercut and it is highly doubtful it would catch a good fall, however it is drilled nonetheless
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  #2  
Unread 06-03-2009, 11:55 AM
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shanja shanja is offline
verticalcult
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Daejeon
Posts: 1,386
Yeah that looks dodgier than a dody thing to my minds eye...I don't think I'd hang my hat off that...weird because the Opera House crag was developed largely by Jeonju Climing Club, who are almost always very safety conscious and well trained in best bolting practice. This one though...whoah!
Maybe this thread should be in the accidents and injuries section though, as we have similar tales and cautionary pics there. Either way really appreciate the heads up and careful thinking. Post away everyone!
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  #3  
Unread 06-03-2009, 11:24 PM
bhylenski bhylenski is offline
Currently a "Gyeongsonian"
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Gyeongsan (Daegu)
Posts: 150
Well Placed!

Come on now, that bolt looks perfectly fine. And anyone who tried to prove me wrong would surely be finished off by that 50 kilo booby trap following it!
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  #4  
Unread 06-04-2009, 04:55 PM
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Les Les is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Seoul
Posts: 165
I believe I've seen that bolt before. Its on the 10b/c on the right side of the opera house wall? Beautiful climb.
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  #5  
Unread 06-05-2009, 09:25 AM
willpower willpower is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sokcho
Posts: 121
Duh! There's nothing wrong with that bolt at all. The fundamental error is with North American climbing technique.....what happened to "leader doesn't fall?".

The other side of the Atlantic climbers virtually never fall, (the very rare times they do are usually camera shoots). In a recent BMC survey it was discovered nearly 98% of UK climbers had never taken a lead fall, this is part in thanks to the BMC's (British Mountaineering clubs) 'falling is dangerous' program which is assisted by the 'Newtonian science institute'. Other measures extend to indoor gyms where they have taken to banning people from the premesis who are seen falling.

There was a big debate to allow Sharma to climb in the UK after he was seen to 'promote falling' in his acclaimed video 'King Lines'.

Falling isn't good for you, your rope, harness, quickdraws or the bolts.

Dont fall!

Supertopoz (Jason) could probably add some more insight.
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  #6  
Unread 06-05-2009, 09:53 AM
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yandy yandy is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chuncheon
Posts: 130
98% of anything that comes out of Willpower is pure bullshit and that's a well researched fact.
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  #7  
Unread 06-05-2009, 09:55 AM
willpower willpower is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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Posts: 121
Spotted falling' were we Andy???
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  #8  
Unread 06-05-2009, 03:06 PM
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Cali4nia Cali4nia is offline
金成범
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Gunpo, South Korea
Posts: 62
Newsflash: subpar bolts inhabit every crag on the planet. There's a simple solution: spend your money and fix it!

Bolt drills being expensive, many local climbing clubs have one that they share among members. They just need money. At the crags, talk to Korean climbers and find clubs. So far, clubs I've met are happy to accept donations from me for new bolts.

This is a start, and I have more work to do. One of the people who posted here earlier has donated money for ten new anchors--not pocket change. Let's all commit to practice our Korean and get involved with climbers who are fixing this. Be part of the solution!
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  #9  
Unread 06-08-2009, 01:29 PM
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choss monkey choss monkey is offline
send train
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seoul
Posts: 330
sorry man, but due to the nature of that rock, i don't think you could be too sure about a lot of those bolts, and i've seen that one in the pic 1st hand. it's a safety hazard for sure. that said though, it's still a fun area. and an occasional death is a small price to pay for a nice over hanging crag.
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  #10  
Unread 06-08-2009, 03:44 PM
supertopoz supertopoz is offline
Mud? Low in fat high in fat? Mud.
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Gyoung Ju
Posts: 97
It's true, us brits don't fall.

We also don't bolt much either.

"If you can't trad lead it, leave it for the generation which can."

I once talked to Tom Frost, a well known old school of America.
He told me, in his whole life time he had fallen twice.

Me too, I have fallen three times, on the lead.
Giggles wick
Hack Dam.
Washington column.

Some say, "If you not falling you not trying."
I say if you are not falling it's because you can down climb well, and are well aware of the possibility or broken limbs, and death, plus in Korea an awareness that your last bolt might be shiny on the outside, but the inside has 5mm of bolt shaft left, and 20-30 years of rust to hold you.

Ladies and Gentlemen. Remember this, off the first bolt three things in a fall are highly likely.

1: Hit the ground.
2: If your partner is using a GriGri, a bent, or snapped first bolt. (possible with a tube belay device too.
3: Far enough up then, even the binners on your draw can be snapped.

Be careful out there, and avoid falling.
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