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Go Back   KOTR Forums > Climbing > Accidents & Injuries

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  #1  
Unread 08-10-2007, 01:01 PM
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shanja shanja is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Daejeon
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Dodgy bolts and anchors Yongseo - beware!

OK so there is no accident here, but the potential for one sure is. A week back we were climbing in lovely Yongseo Pokpo (Gurye area). Sweet place but a lot of the bolts there are getting old. Lots were really rusted, a few hangers were free spinning and quite a few were placed in really dodgy (broken/ loose) pieces of rock. Have a look at the pic here and you get an idea of what I mean. Brandon did test out one bolt (about 100kg dude lead falling) and it held, but if you are out climbing always eye-ball each bolt and the rock it's in. It's not always possible to back up a bolt, but if it looks bad maybe you can focus a bit harder and climb through till you get to a safer place before resting/ practicing your dynos etc.
On anchors: Don't just trust what is there. Eyeball the set-up. In Yongseo at the far left there is a 5.8 called 강아지 (Puppy), that anchors off bomber trees. Makes a great backup anchor for TR-ing the neighboring 5.10d and 5.11a (멧돼지 & 바위사람) too (which we did). BUT the wire rope around the trees is unsafe. Like many such set ups it uses a two bolt clamp to join the ends of the wire rope. Unfortuneatley, one end of the wire has all but pulled out of the clamp. There was an ancient sling (red) as a back-up but it too was partly cut through and faded. So we left a double loop of good 10.2mm climbing rope around the tree as anchor. The anchor for the neighboring 5.10d and 5.11a is a rusty 3-bolt wire rope rig with hook, should be safe, but as the trees are a mere 3m away we used them instead.
So just be prepared to really think about your pro/ anchors. Sometimes you might have to leave a few slings when you go to a crag. It's way cheaper than a trip to hospital, and keeps everyone safer.BTW, I thoroughly recommend this crag despite the warnings herein. It's great!
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  #2  
Unread 09-29-2007, 07:02 AM
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Right on Jake. Another thing about Yeongseo is that they have bolted alot of trad protectable routes so you can always bring a few cams and wires along to back up or use instead of the sketchy bolts...
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Unread 09-30-2007, 02:18 PM
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Hey Ross, long time no see. How you going? Thanks for getting the bolt thing going again. Yesterday I was talking with Kris, Jess, Mike, Katie, Pat and Jules about rebolting needs etc. Maybe NOW IS THE TIME to start a KOTR rebolt project? How much are bolts and hangers there? I saw the madrock expansion bolts and hanger sets here in Korea for about 15,000won (set) in latest catalogue. If they are cheaper there let us know. I'd be super willing to kick in a start up 50,000-100,000won to get some bolts. Anyone else wanna help out? We all complain of the dodgy bolts so lets at least try and help fix the problem of replacing some of the very worst bolts on routes we feel deserving of. Doesn't have to be all in same area even. The 1st bolt on Ellida (엘리다) is just begging to be replaced for example.
Thanks again Ross.
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Unread 09-30-2007, 02:42 PM
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Jake, mate,

anchors are easy enough to replace (with dual chains), but do we have anyone here with a drill, bolts and/or the knowledge to replace bolts?! Given the responce when I posed that question in these forums, well. . . I have been bolting, but never as the most experienced (i.e. responsible) party. . . and I'd defintely check with the Koreans beforehand! I know Jin-taek put in several of the climbs at Kanhyon (though not Elida). . . I could give you his number if you don't have it.

Ross, while you're in an English speaking-bolting country, maybe you could ask around re: limestone, granite, basalt, etc and bolting. . . Also, even if we use expansion bolts, would epoxy be a good idea?!
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Unread 09-30-2007, 04:47 PM
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I agree that we NEED to have someone who is experienced and trustworthy to actually place the bolts, and likewise we NEED to get the nod from local Korean climbers too. I have attached a link here from an Aussie site about what type of bolts and so on for what type of rock. I just think some bolts are so obviously bad that no-one could object to there judicious replacement...I'm not talking about new bolting establishe routes....just replacing dodgy bolts/ anchors WITH the help of experienced Korean Locals where at all possible, we buy and help with the bolting they actually place them. Hows that sound?
http://www.safercliffs.org/code/bolt_guide.html
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Unread 09-30-2007, 06:14 PM
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Sounds great!! But like it'll require a lot of leg work! I'm up for replacing an anchor or two when I'm out and about for the day anyway (and to that end I keep a couple chain anchors in the trunk!), but it's super-cool if you take this on (esp with your Korean connections!) I'd be happy to share my info about first ascentionsits, and of course, I'll remind people who climb on them to please buy you a beer two if they fall or hang alot !
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Unread 04-21-2009, 10:35 AM
RocDoc RocDoc is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2009
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I'll offer the experience I have with replacing anchors and hangers if anyone would like to meet up somewhere, I'll share. I have enough SS sleeve bolts for about 50 replacements but I'm running low on SS hangers- think I have like 10 left. I usually buy online in bulk and fixeusa.com has caught my eye for bulk hangers. At 2.15 ea when buying 100- that's pretty good considering one's and two's are around 4$ at other sites.

I have no problem traveling about 3 hours or so from my home here in Songtan (Near the Airforce Base), I think Songseo? is within my comfortable travel range. It's not a big deal to me to spend a weekend fixing a few routes or replacing rusted anchors- others can climb on the good routes while I work, no big deal.

Let me know if anyone wants to meet up.
Dave
aka RocDoc
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