|Comment added by jhalpin on June 2nd, 2012|
Two new routes have been added and some of the anchors have been improved. Here is an update on the routes:
Fourteen climbs from 7 to 15 meters, L-R:
1. 5.7 crack with nice stainless chain anchor with a ring.
2. 5.10a crack starting under overhang. Three bolts at top for anchoring.
3. 5.7 crack. The anchor has been moved up and has a nice stainless chain and ring.
4. 5.9 face. 2 bolts. The top bolt is really sketchy, but a great crimpy face!!. Nice stainless chain anchor with ring.
5. 5.7 crack just to the right of the face. One sketchy bolt. Webbing death triangle anchor.
6. 5.9 (part corner, a variety of tricks). Four bolts. #1 is ready to break and #3 is sketchy. Nice stainless chain anchor with a ring, but the bolts are sketchy. Thankfully it's backed up to a tree. There is a rope to access the anchor from above.
7. 5.9 crack, supplemented with 2 bolts. The top one is sketchy. Shares anchor with climb #6.
8. 5.1? (I couldn't climb it.) Ridge. 3 shiny new bolts and a shiny new wire death triangle anchor with no ring.
Starting in the "raised" area:
9. 5.9 face. 4 bolts. No anchor.
10. 5.11b. 4 bolts. Only #2 looks good. Webbing death triangle anchor.
11. Unbolted 5.7 crack (that shares the anchor with #12.
12. 5.10 face. 2 bolts. Webbing death triangle anchor.
13. 5.9 face. 1 piton, 3 bolts. All sketchy. Webbing death triangle anchor.
14. 5.9 face. 2 sketchy bolts. Sharing an anchor with climb #13.
Gear required: 6 draws and some lockers and slings for anchors.
|Comment added by jhalpin on June 3rd, 2012|
I rapped down and took a good look at the three anchors in the "raised" area. I wouldn't climb on them.
Climb #4 is the hardest 5.9 I've ever climbed. I'd say 5.10c.
|Comment added by AFclimber on September 23rd, 2012|
|I was there today and to be honest, the place is a lot of fun for a couple of hours on the weekend. Be prepared though, the bolts are 75% OLD AND RUSTY! You need to know how to safely build your own using the many trees above. We took it upon ourselve to cut away the rotted webbing on 2 of the routes. The anchors were VERY unsafe and we didn't want an inexperienced climber getting hurt. The place has potential and we hope to clean up the rock a bit next time we head out there.|
|Comment added by jhalpin on January 16th, 2014|
|It was rebolted in the summer of 2013. Still be careful. I found some bolts that had not been tightened and a few things that were missed. The uppermost anchor is still attached to rusty old hangers that are now ready to break. Don't climb on it! Bring some long pieces of webbing and anchor to the trees above it. In the "raised area" on the right hand side a few bolts were missed because they look OK from a distance. They are not so OK when you go to clip into them. I would only top rope that section. It has lovely new anchors now. Climb #3, the 5.7 crack is now bolted.|
|Comment added by Trent on May 31st, 2016|
|Climbed here yesterday. No more death triangle wires or old bolts... at least I didn't see any. Great place to spend a day. Easy approach as well.|