Province Name: Gyeonggi-Do
City Name: Dongducheon
Type of Area: Ice Climbs
A low grade 200m waterfall on the slopes of Unaksan. The first pitch is is WI2. The second pitch is WI3 and the third pitch is WI1. The first pitch is a great place to set up a top rope and introduce beginners to the sport. The greatest thing about this place is that it is not crowded!
Here is the Google Map Co-ordinates for the parking lot: 37.884372,127.302876
From Gangbyeon Station on Line 2 take the red 11 bus for an hour to get to 광릉내. Then take the blue number 7 bus for a half an hour to get to the Unaksan parking area at 대원사. A pretty tough trick to pull off without a smart phone.
Here is the GPS track from the parking area:
http://share.gps.motionxlive.com/shr/x/track/3df95688c328a995f1c1e6b4a1660166?fb_action_ids=433 896553345199&fb_action_types=motionx-gps%3Arecord&fb_source=timeline_og&action_object_m ap=%7B%22433896553345199%22%3A326403647464016%7D&a ction_type_map=%7B%22433896553345199%22%3A%22motio nx-gps%3Arecord%22%7D&action_ref_map=%5B%5D
Go past the washrooms, turn right and head up the road. When you get to some buildings, you will see an obvious stairway on the left heading up to the ridge. Follow the ridge staying left. At the gazebo you can get a rest and a view of the falls. After the gazebo start looking for a trail to the right leading to the falls. There was a sign at the fork in the trail indicating Mujigae Pokpo (무지개 폭포). It is a 1.4 km walk and takes about 45 minutes.
To top rope the bottom section you often have to make your own anchors in the ice because the permanent anchors get buried. When they are exposed, the permanent anchors are wire death triangles. While it seems all mellow, be aware there were at least 3 deaths recently there. I think they mainly stem from people trying to walk across the upper sections without crampons. It could also be due to making anchors in mushy ice. If the ice looks questionable, anchor to a tree! The bottom anchors are more than 30m up, so you need two ropes to rap of off them.
When mulitipitching be prepared to anchor to ice and or trees. Be sure to use as much of your rope as possible in the first two pitches or you could end up creating an anchor in the ice embarrassingly close to the top.
Gear to Bring
A full rack of screws, slings, and a cordelette for making anchors.
There is a permanent anchor on the climber's left at the top of the first pitch and second one far over on the climber's right way back on the ledge that forms the top of the first pitch. The bottom two anchors are both more than 30m from the bottom so you will need two ropes to rap off them. To top rope on them you will need static rope or webbing to extend the anchor. As of February 2014, the anchor on the right was unusable. The death triangle had broken and was doubled through the hangers such that you could not remove it without cutting tools and there was no room to put biners through the hangers.There is a third anchor on a rock in the middle of the falls at the top of the second pitch. An ice cave often forms around that second anchor. The second anchor is more than 60m from the top so if you use it, you will be doing 4 pitches. There are more permanent anchors but I haven't found them yet.