Province Name: Gyeongsangnam-Do
City Name: Busan
Type of Area: Bouldering
Possibly some of the most accessably boulders in the country - if you have a car. The friendly female nuns at Naewonsa were good enough to pave a road the whole way through naewonsa proper (walking is required for the other areas). With a good arm you can literally through your pads from the car to the boulders.
Naewonsa is a really pretty valley with a boat load of boulders. The climbs offer pretty much everything sans crack. There are plenty of slabs, faces, overhangs and several roofs (one main cave). Arguably some of the best climbing in the Busan area.
The bouldering at Naewonsa is pretty much entirely on riverbed boulders. The rock is predominantly mudstone (i'm no geologist) and although there is excessive amounts of rock everywhere, it tends to be pretty chossy as soon as you get out of the riverbed.
So far there are maybe 50+ lines here, spread over three areas: upper naewonsa, the sunday valley and Naewonsa proper. The established climbs range from V-warm-up up to V11 however the bulk of the established routes are around V3 and up. That said there is still loads of potential for development in the lower grades.
Best time of year is fall and spring but the ice in winter opens up a few otherwise unclimbable lines ('gods most beautiful mistake' being one of them). In the summer a large number of the climbs are unclimbable due to high water and swarming crowds. Oct through May are buisness hours.
Naewonsa is a pretty well know temple in northern Yangsan. If you have a car satnav will find it. if you dont have satnav take the bus first and you should be able to figure it out the next time.
From Oncheonjang hop on the 12 or 13 bus (the stop is on the subway side of the main road just south of the station) and settle in for a long and potentially crowded ride through northern busan and yangsan. It takes a little over an hour to get there. The route map in the bus has Naewonsa written in english and it will announce the stop over the speakers (albeit in korean).
The bus drops you at a small four way intersection with a familymart. take the road with the obvious incline heading into the mountains, this road heads directly to the boulders. after about 20mins walk you will come to the park entrance (fee 2,000) where the river splits. follow the road right to head to Naewonsa proper (20mins) and the uppers (60mins) or walk strait through the car park and take the left stream to find the sunday valley (5-10min)
the only safety concerns are the outrageous crowds during summer vacation.
This is actually in yangsan but given the relative population and proximity i deceided to lable it as Busan.
there are nice toilets the whole way up the paved road (naewonsa proper) and in the sunday valley, however none up in the uppers.
there is a tiny mart at the entrance but its best to stock up down at the familymart where the bus drops you.
Camping is not an option (dont piss of the nuns, im pretty sure they are ninjas) and the park closes at 6 but they generally dont mind if your a little late.
There are also a bunch of decent minbaks that normally charge around 10,000 per person for a room. they also brew up some damn good dongdongju (mountain maekoli) and cook good food too.
Thanks to Cheolyoung for finding this area.
A guide for this area is in the process of being made.