Province Name: Gyeongsangnam-Do
City Name: Busan
Type of Area: Bouldering
LOTS of rock from the Falls all the way up to the base of Nabi Bawi.
THE FALLS is a small area low on the mountain with a few high quality problems that range from slab to steep. Most problems are short but there are a few highballs. The stone is typical for the region. Mostly good, but with occasional chossy areas. It all cleans up nicely though. Perfect for A.M. sessions.
THE ROCKSLIDE is about 15 min from The Falls to the nearest problems, and the rock continues all the way up the mountain to the base of Nabi Bawi. Go with someone who knows the area, or you'll get lost if you're starting from the base.
Boulders of Nabi Bawi
This is by far the best bouldering that Busan has to offer as of today, so I added it as a separate area. Check the area description for Boulders of Nabi Bawi if you want the beta.
If you're heading to the top of the rockslide the easiest way is to hike down from Nabi Bawi (Busan climbing area).
These directions are for the Falls. I really need to map the area out because it's impossible to describe how to hit the Rock Slide from the bottom.
From Guseo dong on the orange line. Exit the North West exit (E-Mart). Walk all the way up the hill in front of E-mart. The giant apartments on your right will be Lotte Castle.
Hike up the valley directly above the NW corner of Lotte Castle apartments The trail starts just right of a tiny creek. Problems start just a few minutes up, but hike above the falls for the good stuff. When you get to the first waterfall with a really old looking building at the base, follow the creek that goes right (N). there are trails that go up to the bouldering and another smaller waterfall.
Just above the lower falls you will see a really amazing boulder you may be tempted to go south or west from there, but don't. All the good stuff is up the creek to the north of that boulder.
before you go... look for good rock, don't expect to see chalk on everything even if it get's climbed regularly. many of the easy to moderate problems have never any seen chalk, but this is changing slowly as more people go out.
You know the drill.
The Falls is a short distance from civilization. The approach can be 10 or 15 min if you have a car and can drive to trail head. The hike to the top of Lotte Castle from the subway can add 10 or more min to the walk.
If you bypass the main area of The Falls, the hike to the heart of The Rock Slide takes about 30 min from the trail head unless you're a slow hiker or get lost.