Yeong Dong Ice Park (영동 인공빙폭) View Full Version of Yeong Dong Ice Park (영동 인공빙폭)

Province Name: Chungcheongbuk-Do
City Name: Daejeon
Type of Area: Ice Climbs

Description
This is a newly developed man-made ice wall about 40mins from Daejeon, in YeongDong Gun. It officially opens January 13th/14th 2007. It has been made by the combined efforts of Daejeon "Fifteen Climbing" Gym boss Han Sanghoon, some Daejeon climbers and some Yeong Dong climbers. Water pipes were rigged up a steep/overhung rock face and dripped, much like similar parks at Garebi, Inje and so on. It was hard work. A foot bridge over the river was also built by local Yeong Dong Gun government workers to replace the pontoon-boat device (see pics).
The climbs are basically hard. Grades range from WI 5 to 6/7. Heights (will) go all the way up to 60m plus. It is heavily featured ice, still thin in places and with potential for some hard mixed routes. But beginners can still get some great practice in on the lower parts, and it is super easy access.
Anchors are set on trees above (access by struggling up left side), and even the best climbers have only been TRing here so far.
Belay areas are well establishes back from the fall lines.
About 4-5 ropes can be set currently, but the park is expanding and may soon be bigger.
2009: When it's busy you can see upwards of 30 TRs going on the 4 walls. Most anchors are now rings on fixed static cord tied through triple bolts/ trees, and don't need extra slings.

Directions
From Daejeon take the Kyongbu Expressway (Daejeon IC/Panam IC etc) south past Okcheon to the Yeong Dong IC. Go through toll gates (2500won from Daejeon) and keep going straight. You go through a 4-way with lights and keep straight for about 10mins. You will pass a wild looking icy sculpture fronted restaurant on right then come to an SK "gas" station and place called "박딸 가든", where a smaller road branches off right. Take this. You should be able to see the ice walls ahead by now. After about 150m you come to a blocked bridge, with a small road branching off right. Take this for a few hundred metres and bang you are there! You can drive right down to the river (there is a container hut and footbridge etc there). Be careful as this area is soft sand and river rock. Getting bogged is possible.

Safety Concerns
Falling ice. Falling climbers, falling tools (leashless is all the rage), getting car stuck, having too much fun, cold wind, falling in the river (well that should be impossible now). Dangers are significant quantities of falling ice (esp after 4pm) and the need to clear much ice daily from the anchor zone/water pipes above. On the cliff itself, dangers are small. Belayers should wear crampons too to avoid being pulled off feet and into the cliff/ fall area. The hike up to the anchor areas is also quite steep, icy and should be done in crampons and with a jumar or tether to the 'hand rope'...a fall here could be nasty, real nasty.

Gear to Bring
Gear needed would be at the least several BIG slings, two 60m ropes, screws to set mid anchors, HELMETS FOR EVERYONE, ice tools, crampons and down parkas for belaying etc. A daisy is also useful for tying the belayer in to an ice screw or rail at the belay area. If you have a 80m rope or longer, I'm jealous and you can TR much more easily.

Additional Comments
Look it's a great place but as it is new and still a bit fragile, give it and the developers due courtesy. The local government supported this project and so consider filling up with gas/diesel/food/drinks locally. There are a few shops/restaurants nearby (you drive passed to get there). Ice climbing classes will be taught there too, so you may find it busy sometimes.
If you have a Korean climbing buddy ask him/her to call and check about climbing there (at least the first time). Call Han Sanghoon/한상훈 from Daejeon Climbing Gym on 011-369-4321. He's a very friendly guy, great climber and foreigner friendly (but speaks little English).
There are heaps of toilets there now, ice skate rink, semi-permanent street food stalls and a few offices. There is also a sound system so you have a soundtrack while you climb!

More Comments
Comment added by CHOI BAWI on February 9th, 2007
DESCRIPTION: Songcheon Ice Parks consists of two artificial ice falls. The Left Fall is primarily for beginners and would be rated at WI3. The Right Fall is for intermediate and advanced climbers and would be graded at WI4 plus. However, the waiver that all climbers agree to and sign before climbing remarks that absolutely no lead climbing is allowed, hence making these grades relative. This may change over time and may vary depending on the condition of the ice.

SAFETY CONCERNS: Wooden dock-like belay platforms are in place on the river for the warmer ice climbing seasons. They are a little restricting in movement to escape from falling ice, but overall not so dangerous.

COMMENTS: Camping is also allowed along the riverbank for no fee.

Comment added by CHOI BAWI on February 9th, 2007
ONE MORE THING: The Left Fall is 30M plus, a single 60M line will not suffice as a top-rope at the center region of the fall. Anchor points for a 60M rope may be made off the trees to the right or left of this is ice fall.

Comment added by climbercrewchief on January 8th, 2008
this place is sweet! make sure you go there.

Comment added by shanja on January 10th, 2009
Like before you do this as an insurance waiver thing and a rego thing. It's still free to climb there (unbelievable), but you have to give some details. Name, address, climbing club, cell/phone number and date. You then check (or are told to check) boxes indicating which of the 4 ice wall areas you will be climbing on. Sometimes it's your choice, sometimes it's managements choice - they have to take care of the cliffs and the ice quality and safety. The 4 walls are called Sa-Gwa Bong (사과봉), Bae Bong (배봉), Po-do Bong (포도봉), and Got-gam Bong (곷감봉). The Korean literate will know these fruity names as Apple, Pear, Grape and Persimmon Walls...I guess because the area around is known for that produce. Anyway there are signs indicating which is which as well as a competition tower that will be in action this coming weekend for a major ice-climbing comp! The access to the bridge across the river is through the sign in room, very similar to Panmunjeom (판문점) up on the DMZ! Apple Wall is the easiest I guess, and on the far left as you face the ice from the carpark side. Anchors are in place atop the walls, usually in the form or solid steel rings hung way down from triple bolts/ trees on white static nylon ropes. A single 60m rope is not long enough to TR any but the right-most parts of Apple Wall, so you'll need two ropes ties together and the wherewithall to pass a knot when belaying (easy with 2 belayers and a jumar clamp)...otherwise a 80m plus rope would be needed. On weekdays when the crowds are light (only a dozen climbers there all day!) there are no set ropes. The "hike" up to the anchor area is perilous and needs crampons and a jumar daisied to your harness is a very good idea. The track up is narrow, steep, very icy and rigged with an old 10mm hand-line (which at the least you should clip into with a sling and biner - better yet that jumar!).

Comment added by shanja on January 14th, 2009
The website for Yeong Dong Ice Park is www.ydbb.kr (easy to remember because its YeongDongBingByeok, 'bingbyeok' being ice wall).

Comment added by shanja on January 2nd, 2010
As of 2010 January, to climb at Yeong Dong costs 10,000won a day/ person. After paying this and signing the waiver, you get Yeong-Dong money (kind of like coupons) which you can use at Yeong-Dong (and only Yeong-Dong) to buy food, gas/ diesel etc) You get 10,000won's worth of coupons and we ate ourselves silly after climbing today on opening day! Great value that ensures the money/ fee stays local and helps the local economy etc. Oh you also get a groovy sticker you put on your helmet.