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Suraksan, Jeolteosaem Amjang
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Granite slab in NE Seoul. Suraksan Park is easy to overlook with Bukhansan nearby. There's nothing here to compare with Insubong or Seoninbong, but if you're looking to avoid the crowds. . . it's a pleasant park and a good training ground for it's bigger, more famous cousins. There are several crags in the park, but it's quite spread out-- over two provinces and several cities. Jeolteosaem isn't the biggest or flashiest crag in the park-- four (sparcely) bolted routes from 5.8-5.9-- but it's just off a main trail and routefinding is obvious.
... [Read More]
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surisan 수리산
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small crag with about ten really good quality routes routes mostly in the 5.10 range with one 5.9 and a couple 11's. climbing style is fun mix of crimpy and juggy routes from 10 to 20m... [Read More]
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Suwon
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The rock here is very short maybe 25 ft tall. Rock type is crumbly quartzite granite, the rock is sold but small pebbles will break off. Type of climbing is slab/face/cracks and 1 corner. This seems like alot but there are actually only 5 climbs here. I wouldnt suggest this crag to anyone that doesnt live in the immediate area but if you are close and bored you might want to check it out for something diffrent.... [Read More]
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Swinjil Bawi Ambyeok Jang
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쉰질 바위 암벽장 has 14 routes (though some 2-3 pitches and some with variations) were put up in fall 2000. Cracks, faces, overhangs, roofs. Sport routes take up to 12 draws (for a 12d) and up to 2 sets of friends are recommended for the trad climbs (since that's all many Koreans use these days). The longest single pitch is 28 meters.
There is a route map at the base.... [Read More]
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The General (Janggun Bong)
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High friction granite with plenty of features and a killer view (well, in the event it is clear. . . otherwise the mist hugs the mountains like a watercolor. . . ) Slabs, faces, cracks, chimneys, roofs. . . most routes have it all. Eleven 2-8 pitch climbs are established on the SW face. The easiest 1st pitches are 20m 5.4 (barely and unprotected) 60 degree slabs. . . but the General is best for those who want a moderate-hard multi-pitch adventure. The easiest way to the summit is the ridgeline, which includes 5.1-5.7 pitches. Plenty of bail opt... [Read More]
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Uiam
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Bukhansan granite in the Dobongsan region. U-i-am (우이암) is a prominent tilting pinnacle with mostly aid routes, but a few cracks and run-out slabs. Down the path just before the shelter (우이산장) is another rock with some cracks and 3 well placed bolts, 자유동반?, an 11b? that would accept med-small gear.
Uiam has an overhanging fingers to offwidth 13 crack. . . to the left of the main "blob" from that is a 10c crack. . . there are several A0 bolt ladders to the summit as... [Read More]
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Ul Bawi
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Nice quality roadside crag with something for everyone in 22 routes. Face climbing with some corners, edges, even some cracks .Bouldery starts and a little run-out on some (easier) routes. Then there are some overhanging routes, and finally, some massively overhanging roofs, several with big juggy holds. Grades to 12a. Everything is accessable via a short scramble to the top, so no worries about leaving draws if you want to jump on something hard The longest route is 16 meters, but that figures in severe roof/overhangs. The shortest routes ar... [Read More]
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Ulleungdo ferry terminal
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It's pretty small but it would be good fun if your waiting for the ferry to go...
I didn't climb it because I had no gear.
I can't give grades as I'm new to climbing but it didn't look too difficult.
Porus volcanic rock. I don't know the name. Felt pretty solid and had no bits falling off.
Three routes with an anchor at the top of each.
Each anchor has three bolts (two in the middle route) with metal wire through them in a loop.
The bolts seem to start quite a way up.... [Read More]
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Ulsanbawi
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Granite slabs, chimneys, cracks, overhangs. About 20 routes, though many are aid (mostly in the form of bolt ladders, almost all A0, but up to A2). Great friction! Can be very rough on the hands and any other exposed skin!
Right of the orange stairs leading up Ulsanbawi is a crack system (5.8) then a prominant offwidth crack (5.11) and a crack-to-face (5.9) that lead to either a 2nd pitch 5.9 crack system or bolt ladder (AO). route continues up slabs/crack/chinmeys/via obvious headwall right. Numerous variations include bolt ladders, hand cr... [Read More]
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Ulsanbawi Nadeurigil 울산바위 나드리길
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The "easy route" on a beautiful castle in the sky called 울산바위 not far from the main entrance to 설악산. There are 23 pitches on the "hard route" (하나되는길), but this route walks around a lot of the harder ones so it is divided into "areas" rather than pitches. It normally requires an overnight bivy which is actually illegal (but see "Seoraksan Climbing Permits," in chat forum). The rock is sticky, but therefore, bloodthirsty as well. On trad routes like this, bolts ar... [Read More]
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