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운일암반일암
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A truly magical valley of boulders (it's been home to a local bouldering festival for years). . . There area a couple of kilometers where bouldering is possible. Several sectors have been developed between the two main campgrounds. There are several bridges and (of course, depending on water-levels) river crossings. Super-high crack boulders would even make trad practice possible. About 50 developed lines, but more potential.
There are also 4 sport routes, just across (and slightly west) of the prominent gazebo. There are no anchors, just tw... [Read More]
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전주바위오름실내암장
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Bouldering gym in Jeonju, replacing Kim's and Jeonju Climbing Center as the only public gym in town. It's still pretty new, but large, with bouldering walls ranging from almost vertical to quite steep. Campus boards and hangboards. . . Some fitness machines, a belt massager, weight belts, changing room, magazine library.
Membership is W50,000 monthly and the gym is usually open. They generally do trips to local crags on Sunday.... [Read More]
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Byeong Bawi
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Similar to Halmaebawi and nearby. There are 4 routes in the 11c-d range (routes A-D). . . so not much variety. The limestone tower is hard-to-miss, with a scary overhanging outward face! Don't worry, the climbs are on the back.... [Read More]
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Dosol Am Climbing Sectors
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Sununsan limestone-- slab to face to overhangs. . . just over 100+ routes mostly put in during the early to mid 1990s. All single pitches (I think only 1 or 2 are not) are 25 meters or less. . . 2 require 13 draws, one 12 and the rest fewer. Some are really short, with a good many under 10 meters-- almost boulder problems with a couple of bolts.
When I first got to Korea in 1998 we climbed here a bit. . . but the place has largely fallen out of favor. I had thought it was off limits but recently learned it was not-- just rarely climbed in fa... [Read More]
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Dweiji Bawi (Pig Rock)- Daedunsan
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Grippy dark granite face climbing with a little slab and some crack features. A severe overhang cave for the insane (5.13s). About 20 routes all up, with the majority being in the 510a-10d range. Two new shiny metal info boards (about 40x25cm) are screwed onto the rock near either end of Dweiji Bawi and can give good exact rout info.... [Read More]
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Gangcheonsan-- Byeongpung Bawi
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Korea's first county park, Gangcheonsan County Park boasts an awful lot of rock! Unfortunately, the bolted routes are right besides (and in some cases, in the middle of) a waterfall. I saw nowhere near the 15 routes (one 10b, one 12b, and 13 5.11s) purported on this cliff, counting 3 anchors and a few bolts (those I inspected closely were shiny, as were the homemade? hangers). Two of the anchors were practically in the falls (this is early May, after a rain two days ago) and most of the routes got a spray. Belaying (dryly) could also pose probl... [Read More]
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Halmae Bawi
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There are about 2 dozen climbs on this protruding rock face. Most of the climbs are from 5.10 to 5.12. The rock is limestone and a good portion of it is overhanging. Most of the routes are less than 15 meters high with a few exceptions. Most of the rock is of good quality, but some climbs have some loose rock as well as the only multi-pitch climb.
In sum, pumpy, overhanging, juggy, limestone climbs similar to climbs in Thailand or, a little closer to home, Seonunsan.... [Read More]
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Iksan All-weather Climbing Gym
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A welcome addition for Iksan climbers, Iksan's new All-weather Rock Climbing Gym (익산 전천후 인공암벽장) is a behemoth. The 3-story square building boasts 3 walls of climbing inside, with varying degrees of overhangs/difficulty. It's open Tuesday-Saturday 2PM-10PM; closed Sun-Mon. On the outside are side-by-side speed-climbing walls (Official "International Federation of Sport Climbing World Record" certified). The inside wall is 3 stories (about 12 meters?) and draws are in place for... [Read More]
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Jeonju Artificial Rock Climbing Wall
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With this wall, opened in 2008, Jeonju has joined the big leagues!!
Seventeen meters high, fully covered, with a little side wall for bouldering. . . it's open everyday. . . W1000 and equipment is available (check with the office in the back).... [Read More]
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Jeonju Climbing Center
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JCC IS NOW CLOSED 
Small, unassuming and tucked away, this gym is very basic-- the standard one story bouldering with a few holds on the ceiling.
전주클라이밍 센타 is home to 2 of Korea's top 10 ice climbers, however, and there are dry hooking routes!
Minimal English, but friendly climbers (김덕중, 최정길, 조덕규) who will work with very poor Korean. No landline phone or website. W30,000 a month. The gym is open primarily M-F 7-9... [Read More]
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