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KOTR is looking for a new owner. Are you a developer, a climber and have plans to stay in Korea for a while? If so, email me at [email protected]
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Ahgulbawi
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Only fifteen routes, but some sweet lines. Except for one climb, they're all single pitch, from 10-30m, mostly face climbing on granite.... [Read More]
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Jeok Byeok
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Overhanging granite face (with some features/cracks); all routes on the "red face" require significant aid climbing (OK, one was freed by Son Chung-Jun and Son Sang-Won), though primarily AO bolt ladders. It's overhanging and very exposed. Bolts and anchors are solid and slings seem to be changed fairly regularly, but the routes are used often and the slings are "aided on", so some extra slings and a knife might not be a bad idea.
There are 4 routes on the face, from left to right, 1) KyoDae "take turns" p1 12b/AO,25m p2 AO bolt ladder,30m p... [Read More]
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Mi-Reuk-Jang-Goon Bong
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rock type: granite
style: crack, face, slab, overhang
excellent rock quality. solid granite. nice cracks with room for bomber pro. beautiful golden slabs, bolted for your pleasure.
bomber bolted belay stations with some bolts for protection on the south wall plus lots of places for natural pro.
the north wall is not as tall, but boasts some nice sport pitches right over a stream. bolts and anchors are solid.... [Read More]
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Shilso Falls
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this place has 15 m climbs on a very nice line of ice. the quoted name may be inaccurate, but it's upposed to translate as 'thread falls' owing to the narrowness of the ice line.... [Read More]
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The General (Janggun Bong)
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High friction granite with plenty of features and a killer view (well, in the event it is clear. . . otherwise the mist hugs the mountains like a watercolor. . . ) Slabs, faces, cracks, chimneys, roofs. . . most routes have it all. Eleven 2-8 pitch climbs are established on the SW face. The easiest 1st pitches are 20m 5.4 (barely and unprotected) 60 degree slabs. . . but the General is best for those who want a moderate-hard multi-pitch adventure. The easiest way to the summit is the ridgeline, which includes 5.1-5.7 pitches. Plenty of bail opt... [Read More]
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Towangsong Falls
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Towangsong is an awesome 320m ice line consisting of a 100m (75-95 deg) lower falls and 150m (90-95 deg) upper falls.... [Read More]
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Ulsanbawi
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Granite slabs, chimneys, cracks, overhangs. About 20 routes, though many are aid (mostly in the form of bolt ladders, almost all A0, but up to A2). Great friction! Can be very rough on the hands and any other exposed skin!
Right of the orange stairs leading up Ulsanbawi is a crack system (5.8) then a prominant offwidth crack (5.11) and a crack-to-face (5.9) that lead to either a 2nd pitch 5.9 crack system or bolt ladder (AO). route continues up slabs/crack/chinmeys/via obvious headwall right. Numerous variations include bolt ladders, hand cr... [Read More]
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Ulsanbawi Nadeurigil 울산바위 나드리길
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The "easy route" on a beautiful castle in the sky called 울산바위 not far from the main entrance to 설악산. There are 23 pitches on the "hard route" (하나되는길), but this route walks around a lot of the harder ones so it is divided into "areas" rather than pitches. It normally requires an overnight bivy which is actually illegal (but see "Seoraksan Climbing Permits," in chat forum). The rock is sticky, but therefore, bloodthirsty as well. On trad routes like this, bolts ar... [Read More]
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Yuseondae
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Another fine granite peak easily accessed from Bisandae Mountain Shelter less than an hour from the main entrance to Seoraksan. This peak, slightly behind and left of the General (Janggunbong) offers multipitch routes of a high quality. Most of the development has been recent, while 1981 saw climbers on the SW face, there was a wave of development in 2004 and 2 new routes in 2006, just right of the ridge on the N face) put in by Kolon Climbing School and well-known climbers, including Go Mi-young. Ireukgongcheon is a 10d 7 pitch, well bolted ex... [Read More]
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