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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas

Dodeuramsan Submitted on October 30th, 2005 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeonggi-Do City: Icheon
Park: n/a Rating: 5.8 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 6161 Photos: 10 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 2 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
Slabs, vertical, overhangs. 12 sport routes and one crack (that could be TRed from the anchors of the neighboring 5.9).

Bolted in 2002-03, Dwaeji Am Jang, the last of 4 prominent outcroppings at Dodeuramsan offers a selection of climbs on mostly solid (we did clean a few lose holds) rock, though some of the pockets resembled small mouthes filled with crystal teeth-- and they bit! The rocks are visible from the road, and it looked like all the hiking trails led to the top to the mountain, just above the crag. Hiking trails go right by the base. We started up the trail just behing the unassuming temple.

Routes are, L-R from the base: 11a, 9,9,8 (crack), 12?, 12, 10d, 10c, 10a, 10?, 10b, 9,9.


Directions
Rising 349m, Dodeuramsan stands in the field of Majang-ri and Pyogyo-ri, 8km down the National Road No.42 from Icheon Hot Springs. There is a parking lot across the road from the mountain, and a few pull-out spots even closer. Maps with trails and rock outcroppings can be found at the trailhead. I found the following directions on the Net: Take a bus for Yongin at Icheon downtown and get off at Pyogyo Elementary school. It takes 20min. Walk for 15min. from the stop to the entrance of Hiking Trails.

Road Directions: Jungbu Expressway or National Road No. 3-> Icheon-> National Road No.42 for Yongin-> (6.5km) -> Pyogyo-ri-> turning right to the entrance of Pyogyo elementary school-> (1km) -> Parking lot of Dodeuramsan.


Safety Concerns
A few loose rocks, but generally solid and well-bolted.


Gear to Bring
The routes range from 8-22 meters and from 3-6 bolts, so 8 draws and a 50 meter rope will do. To lead the crack, some small-medium pieces. It gets almost chimney-like near the top, but a few long slims would enable you to clip the top bolts of the neighboring 5.9.


Additional Comments
In the shade. It's about 40 minutes up, and the nearest place to get water, food. . . is the Dodeuramsan Super (market) across the street.

Seems like it would be a nice climbing add-on to the near-by hot springs and ceramics village.



Comment added by Durachok on May 27th, 2007
Just visited this crag this weekend. Bolts are still bomber, but the routes are a bit dirty. Nice chilled place to climb.

A word of advice about getting there. When you get to the trailhead, there is a sports field and a trail map - hike up to the third peak (the signage is all in Korean but you can see there are 3 peaks). Just past the third peak there's an outcropping of rock with some staircases going down it. Head down the stairs and hang a left. The crag is right there.

Also it's the #3 bus that you take at Yongin to get yo Pyogyo.

Comment added by Sus on June 8th, 2010
Here was my experience getting to the climbing area. It's a nice space, but all the pockets are filled with spikey geode stones, and it hurst like hell to jam your hands in there.

The mountain, Dodeuramsan, has three minor peaks, labeled 1,2, and 3...and one major peak.

after you reach the MAIN peak (not 1,2, or 3), pass it and walk along a little ridge. you'll find yourself at a little wooden fence--there is a sign saying that 8 people were injured and one person died in a rock slide. Climb under that sign and you will see one of the most interesting sights I've seen in a boulder-path here in Korea. Shiny metal bars, like ladder rungs you might see coming out of a pool are bolted right into the rocks. So you wedge yourself down and aroundthen you have two options. KOTR directions tell you to head right down the metal stairs. which will lead you to a GORGEOUS but incredibly eerie tunnel of massive boulders. you can see the wooden steps have been smashed, like in an old-timey western mining tracks ride at some theme-park somewhere. this is where the accident occurred. your other option is to go over the top, hang a right immediately as the path splits off onto dirt trails. Cut right thru the fence just after the barbed wire ends. you'll see the rock-face there, in the shade and overgrown by ferns and bell-shaped purple flowers.

Comment added by Durachok on June 17th, 2010
If you happen to have a Navigation/GPS unit (if you don't, and you drive, I highly recommend you get one. Your life in Korea will become immeasurably easier, though you may also become significantly stupider), then try searching for the SK Telecom Future Management Institute (미래경영연구원) or the Chicken University. Yes, the Chicken University (치킨대학). (See photo of road sign.)

The Address for the Chicken University is:
경기도 이천시 마장면 목리 1-12번지

The trailhead is in the parking lot adjacent to the Future Management Institute (directly across from the Chicken University).

Comment added by Durachok on June 17th, 2010
Just an addendum, apparently typing "SK텔레콤연구원" in your Navigation will get you right to the parking lot at the trailhead. Below is a (Korean) blog with some photos of the approach to the crag (near the bottom).

http://blog.naver.com/kyepok?Redirect=Log&logNo=80106737873

Comment added by jkoffroader323 on March 3rd, 2013
I just went there yesterday and it was easy to find following these directions. Although it was really cold on the bolted side and we weren't able to climb much since the rock was frozen, we did climb on the first peak in the sun. There are a few spots to do some lead climbing with pro, and you can even TR it since There is a path along the top. It is right off the path so you'll get some spectators.



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