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Jeok Byeok Submitted on September 21st, 2005 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gangwon-Do City: Sokcho
Park: Seoraksan Park Rating: 5.10 - 5.12 Style: Traditional
Views: 7639 Photos: 7 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 1 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
Overhanging granite face (with some features/cracks); all routes on the "red face" require significant aid climbing (OK, one was freed by Son Chung-Jun and Son Sang-Won), though primarily AO bolt ladders. It's overhanging and very exposed. Bolts and anchors are solid and slings seem to be changed fairly regularly, but the routes are used often and the slings are "aided on", so some extra slings and a knife might not be a bad idea.

There are 4 routes on the face, from left to right, 1) KyoDae "take turns" p1 12b/AO,25m p2 AO bolt ladder,30m p3 AO,15m p4 15m scramble to the top. 2)Crony A1 p1 35m bolt ladder, p2 20m bolt ladder, p3 20m bolt ladder, p4 25m scramble w/4 bolts 3) DokJu A1 p1 35m bolt ladder AO, p2 25m bolt ladder, p3 30m scramble to top (route goes right from the first belay station staying on the obvious easier bolt ladder!) 4)Echo p1 2.11c 20m, p2 AO 30m (the true echo goes left near the top of the pitch to the ledge left of DokJu), p3 A2 20m, p4 20m to the top. If you go straight and just left of DokJu (belaying straight up from the anchors on the rt of the ledge) it's A4. Rap anchors on top; a 20m and a 40m rap to the base, another 45m rap from the base brings you low on the trail!

There is a "ridge" route (first pitch 5.10 starts on the side facing the shelter and then veers slightly behind the main face, at a slightly easier grade. . . but this route can get "crowded")


Directions
Jeok Byeok is the red wall visible from Pisandae rest area/mountain hut, about 40 minutes up a nice trail from the entrance to the park. Stay in this hut and you'll be sure to meet climbers. Both times I've climbed Jeok Byeok I met my partners at the shelter! There are topos (in Korean) for Jeok Byeok and the neighboring Janggun Bong in the shelter. Cross the bridge just below the shelter (to your right if you're favcing the cliffs) then take the trail that heads immediately left, up and around to the base. At the end of the trail, there is a huge overhanging boulder, and from here across to the base it's a 5.8 AO approach that everyone ropes up for.


Safety Concerns
Most of the bolts are conveniently spaced, a few require a bit of a stretch or a rock climbing move. On a busy day, other parties could be a problem, especially as several climbs overlap or share a belay. A helmet might not be a bad idea.


Gear to Bring
All of the routes are aid; KyoDae and DokJu (and it looks like the others, though I can't be sure), can be done with 20 draws, two 50m ropes, aiders and hooks (or creative use of slings) for each person. Confortable shoes (approach shoes) are all that's necessary unless you're going to try to free climb the few places where it's possible. Extra slings and a knife would enable you to switch out anything questionable, though it seems this is regularly done by the many Koreans who climb here.


Additional Comments
Everything from a bunk and blanket ($5) to a hot meal, drinks, souvenirs, etc can be had at the Pisandae Rest Area just below the climb. Wave down to the people sure to gather on the roof to watch you climb!

The route is so overhanging you can climb in the rain (as I did recently) without getting wet (well, once you're there). The approach is suprisingly solid even when the stream is running with water. East facing so it gets the AM sun.



Comment added by Cali4nia on December 10th, 2008
From November 15 to December 15, SEORAKSAN IS CLOSED. The whole park. You can't climb or hike anywhere, and you can't sleep at Biseondae shelter. The park seems well patrolled, as they caught us on the way to climbing.



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