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KOTR is looking for a new owner. Are you a developer, a climber and have plans to stay in Korea for a while? If so, email me at [email protected]
Sunny Rock 양지바위 Yangji Rock Submitted on December 9th, 2018 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Daejeon
Park: Daedunsan Park Rating: 5.7 - 5.9 Style: Sport
Views: 4666 Photos: 4 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 2 Image(s) - Add Images

A "beginner area" on a slabby slab that's 15 minutes from the road (mostly sturdy stairs). There are about 6-7 routes, all pretty much the same. . . lots of frictiony slab with a little roof crux near the end. Chain anchors (need replacement quick links) and high first bolts (most routes only have 2-3 bolts). 30 meter routes, so tie a knot at the end of your rope! For bolts directly under the roof, bring a long sling-- the friction is great for feet, not-so-much for ropes!

The start of the approach is just off road 17, about 5.3kilometers S/W of the main entrance to the park, on the right (if you're heading from the park, it's just past the Cherry Pension, on the left). Check navigational photos for the can't-miss entrance, just beside a fence. Parking is just across the street, beneath the ridges of Mt.Cheongdeung (청등산).

Safety Concerns
Very high, but easy, first bolts. If you bring young kids, there's a bit of a drop off a few meters beyond the base. When belaying, there are bolts and trees to anchor in. The rock quality is good, but some routes have the bolt below the roof, so bring a long sling to protect the "steep" part.

Gear to Bring
60 meter rope 6 draws, and a long sling will do!

Additional Comments
There is a friendly goat in the area. As the name suggests, this south-facing slab gets plenty of sunshine and is great for sunny autumn/winter days, though lying in a valley, the sun does disappear a little early. There are really no amenities near, so bring water, snacks, everything you'll need for the few hours /1/2 day you'll be here!

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