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Shilli Am Jang Submitted on May 28th, 2005 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Jeonju
Park: n/a Rating: 5.9 - 5.12 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 5712 Photos: 11 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

Slab, vertical, bulges and roofs, and big comfy ledges, too. 5-15m climbs (though I'm a poor judge and I didn't make a point to take note)
Nine routes (one has two endings) from 5.9-12a. The 5.9 cracks have a few obnoxious pieces of foliage, but make up for it with some nifty laybacks;these cracks are bolted, and really too shallow for gear. The 10's on the left are super crinpy dime-edges, but they work! If you have small fingers or want to practise your footwork, I haven't seen anything like this in the 20 or so climbing areas I've visited in Korea.
Shilli appears infrequently used and a bit overgrown, but shady. There is a beehive smack in the middle of the crag (I mean a human-made and tended one!); my partner was stung but brushed it off with a word. THIS MIGHT BE A REAL HAZARD TO ANYONE WHO IS ALLERGIC TO BEE STINGS. The base is narrow (beyond that, slopy), but there's an easy approach from the top, where there's a lovely gazebo (in several visits, I've seen evidence of people, but never anyone there). Bivvy potential, and certainly a great picnic spot for lunch. In any event, the top might be the best place to set up. There's also a small green shack, which was locked on my initial visits but since pried and left open, door hanging, and since closed again. Clambor to the edge of the rocks to the left of the white pavilion, look for the anchors. Back them up and rap or walk down trail on far right (past the 3 low hung anchors).

From Jeonju, busses 711, 725, 752, 782, 785 and 201 leave from Nambu Market, City Hall, the Bus Terminal. . and go to Shilli from 06:00-22:14 (get off by Shilli station). Trains leave Jeonju/arrive Shilli at 05:54/06:05 and 08:06/08:16 and return from Shilli/ to Jeonju 09:09/09:19 and 21:11-21:20. There are bike trails and farm roads connecting Jeonju and Shilli and are found parallel to the main road to Namwon. Shilli Am Jang is a few hundred meters further (SE) from the big outcropping visible behind the train station. There's a turnoff left for cars (heading over the railroad tracks); by foot it's safer to walk a bit further and climb stairs to the same bridge over the tracks. You'll be able to see the white pavillion that is your destination. A slick marble and metal-railed staircase right out of the side of the road leads up to a dirt "staircase" to the pavilion, past a few graves and a fitness park. It's all 15 minutes from the train station/bus stop. Left and behind the pavilion is the top of the rocky outcrop, and you can see the anchors.

Safety Concerns
The rock seemed solid. See above regarding gear. Bugs could be a problem in summer; there was a bee-box? at the base of the cliff, but on recent visits this has been removed. I am not sure if bees are a seasonal hobby, so be careful if you are alergic to bees

Gear to Bring
For anchors, bring large gear or long slings (for trees and boulders). If you're going to set topropes on some of the low hung anchors, you'll need to lower quite a bit off some trees. All gear (that I checked) seemed solid to me, though the old pitons and some bolts were rusty and the anchors were strung with old wire and rope, and with draws some weren't equalized. If you have draws of various lengths or slings, take them. Everything is bolted, but there may be some routes that take gear; larger rather than smaller, especially right of the main area (past a small fence).

Additional Comments
A nice diversion for folks in/near Jeonju (or visiting), a lovely drive/ride through a beautiful, lush valley through quaint villages. You can buy fresh produce and very local honey! The pavilion is large and would be a nice place to picnic/bivvy. The views are spectacular. Be sure to walk down below before you leave so you can view the cliff from afar, as it's also pretty impressive-looking. The town of Shilli has restaurants, general stores, PC rooms, etc. Jungnim Hot Springs is about 2k further down the road, accessible by bus/train/path. A soak in the nice, but non-descript and decisively provincial hot springs waters will set you back $5-7.

Comment added by skinsk on June 1st, 2005
Sorry, either my computer or I are unable to produce Korean text, so I can't give the names (at this time), but the grades for the routes at Shilli are, left to right: 10d/10b/10c'10b/10a/5.9 (has two equally graded endings and is a crack, appropriately named Crack A & B/10b/11a/12a. All route info is from a Korean guidebook; I'll try to contact the author for permission to scan and post topos.

Comment added by kirbyf16 on June 25th, 2005
Just a clarification on the directions...Walking: from the train station in Shilli, take the walking bridge over the tracks. Go right at the bottom and meet the driving directions as you turn left onto the road that just went over the tracks on the bridge.

Driving: From Cheongju follow signs for 17 Namwon southeast out of town. About 6km southeast after leaving the city, there'll be one sign for Shin-ri to the left. .3km down that road, just past the train station, turn left and go over the tracks on the bridge. After passing the small road where the walking directions join, you'll sse the concrete steps and railing going up to the pavilion. If you walk down the next small road to the left, you'll see a trail leading steeply up into the trees about 30m down the road on the left side. This leads to the base of the cliff. Park somewhere off the road that went over the bridge and walk the farm road to the trail to the bottom.

If you have a GPS, the coordinates are N35 46.094 E127 12.767.

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