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Chwiamson Mountain Submitted on September 29th, 2011 by swixjohnson Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Chungcheongnam-Do City: Cheonan
Park: n/a Rating: 5.9 - 5.11 Style: Sport
Views: 6483 Photos: 3 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 2 Image(s) - Add Images

8 sport routes on granite with some flake. Quality is mixed from solid to some loose sections. Most climbs about 15 meters with 1 being about 25meters.

From Left to right climbs are: 5.9-5.10A/B-5.10C-5.10C-5.11A-5.11 B/C and 5.10 C (overhang).

There are no buses that pass this area. You will either need a car or a mixture of bus #400 and a taxi from Mocheon. You can catch bus 400 from the Cheonan bus terminal.

Exit route 21 from Cheonan. Go downhill, make right at bottom of hill. Go about 2 kilometers until you see a bridge on your right and a sign next to the bridge that says "KGB." Make right over bridge, go straight until road splits. Go left at the split to the top of the hill and park where the final house lot is. Park and walk straight ahead up the trail. Follow trail until it ends and make a right through a small cut-through which links up with a large trail. Make right on trail going uphill. Follow for about 10 minutes until you come to a rock outcropping. The crags are below these overhanging rocks. Go around the far side of the rocks and descend the clear trail. You can also email me and we might try to set-up a meet so that I can simply show you where to go.

Safety Concerns
Bolts looks solid and some are new. Anchors are in good condition with several new anchors recently installed. Main concern is loose rock.

Gear to Bring
You will need about 10 draws and a 60 meter rope. There are no stores so bring snacks and water. NO bathroms..

Additional Comments
If you live in the area or are passing by it might be worth a stop.

Comment added by skinsk on October 12th, 2016
From Cheonan on 21, exit right just after Cheiamsan Tunnel; conversely, if coming from the west on 21, exit just before the tunnel and head south underneath 21. The "downhill" mentioned in the original post is just after the exit, but you want to turn left at the bottom!! The crag is south of 21!!

From the empty lot (the last one is a bit downhill from the middles lots, but provides parking and a decent port-o-let) the trail heads up (more than 10 minutes) past benches . . . the first major rocky outcropping is the crag. Maybe you saw it from the empty lots? It's almost hidden in summer! To get to the crag, starting at the base of the outcrop (near two facing benches), head either straight down on your right (most direct) or around left and then down in front of the outcrop, or straight over and down. A little wet and overgrown, but good chain anchors, and probably a decent fall/winter spot. Where the ground is slopey, there are trees to anchor in.

Comment added by climb.or.marc on March 16th, 2018
Far better to park at the Cheonanmokcheon Apartments and use the established trailhead there (between Bldg 109 and 111 - not the back of the complex). The trails from the apartments are well established and well used. While you can still park at the empty house lots, the elevation gain in much more significant and the trail has been blocked giving the appearance not to go that way any more.

Bus #400 will drop you off at the bottom of the hill below the apartments if you plan to take the bus. It also looks like the 500 bus uses that stop as well as some others.

The routes mostly face NE to NNE. If it's warm out, these will be shaded in the afternoons. It will only briefly catch morning sun in the winter.

There is plenty of room more route development here. From the looks of it, several good climbs may exist in the moderate to easy category (5.10 and below). Where it's undeveloped, the upper half of the rock appears to have much higher quality than the lower half. The developed parts are in good condition considering the apparent lack of use.

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