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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas

Moo Myeong Ridge Submitted on March 16th, 2009 by yandy Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeongsangnam-Do City: Busan
Park: n/a Rating: 5.4 - 5.11 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 2636 Photos: 4 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

Description
This was described by the Busan Climbing club as the beginner's guide to Multi-pitch climbing. It's basically a big buttress of granite, sticking out the East side of the Geum Jeong San ridge above Nam San Dong.

It starts just behind Moo Myeong Temple, with a fairly easy slab (made more difficult by bit of ice during the winter and early Spring.) There's then potential for about 6 or 7 pitches up to the top, depending on your route. You could probably scramble up a lot of it, and there are a lot of places to drop out. There's also the perfect spot for a Tyrollean Traverse.

Whilst the ridge is fairly easy and well protected, there looks like there is plenty of potential for trad routes up the side. Plenty of cracks and some overhanging stuff.


Directions
From Nam San Dong subway station exit 5, head West, up the hill towards Geumjeong San. Walk for about ten minutes and you will come to a white church (Geum Jeong Gyo-Hoe), opposite a driving range. Take the trail to the left of the church through a small exercise area.

Walk up the trail, keeping first the playing fields and then Moo Myeong Sa (temple) on your right. Go about 500m past the temple and the path loops around to the right, follow it to the foot of the ridge.

You could also access the rocks from the top, via the main Geum Jeong San ridge.

OK outdoor do a good map of Geum Jeong San. (although this ridge isn't actually marked on it.)


Safety Concerns
The climb was surprisingly quiet for a beautiful Sunday morning at the start of Spring. All the protection seemed strong and new. Ice/water on the first slab. There was a few loose rocks, take a helmet.


Gear to Bring
If you're just doing the ridge you wouldn't need more 4 or 5 quick draws, it really is that simple. Gear to make a Tyrollean Traverse (I wouldn't have a clue how to set this up.) It took two ropes to descend the South face near the top of the ridge.


Additional Comments
I presume you can get water at the temple. On the main Geum Jeong San ridge there's a little mountain village with loads of cool restaurants. This is about 3-4km South of the climb. I'd take my own supplies.

Got a bit cold and windy at times, take a wind-cheater.





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