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KOTR is looking for a new owner. Are you a developer, a climber and have plans to stay in Korea for a while? If so, email me at [email protected]
Amnan Park, Whale Rock (고래암) Submitted on May 6th, 2008 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeongsangnam-Do City: Busan
Park: n/a Rating: 5.10 - 5.11 Style: Sport
Views: 15129 Photos: 2 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

There are only 6 (first pitches) routes on this rock, from 10a-11a, all about 17 meters. A fixed line connects the anchors, so if you did one, you could top-rope the others. There are 3 2nd pitches, but plenty of loose rock and extremely steep grades makes it unwise to try them. The developers since regret bolting these, and warn people not to try them. The base is a weird concrete-like rock, and the rest is more of the multi-layered conglomerate seen throughout the park!

The bottom boast some interesting and varies routes, though.

busses 7, 9, 71 and 9-1 head to Annam Park.
Driving directions to the park are the same as Annam Gong Won.

Whale Rock is the furthest crag from the park entrance. From the main trail, just past the green shed (right) and picnic tables (left), where the trail splits, follow the left fork up along the coast. It'll head back down, all the while following a soft green railing (and warnings not to fall!). Keep left, along the green when the trail splits. The railing ends but the trail continues down, past two military bunkers. It's rather steep, and at the end there are knotted fisherman's ropes to aid your decent. Once you're at sea-level, head right about 20 meters until you see bolts on cement-like rock. Look up and you'll notice that a fixed rope connects all of the anchors-- if you want to try to toprope some, this can be useful. Whale rock has three very steep and difficult second-pitches, which are not recommended by the route's creators as the rock is very loose.

Safety Concerns
Loose rock on the 2nd pitches makes these not recommended.

The approach trail can be sketchy in areas, but there is a fixed line in parts.

Gear to Bring
12 draws and a 50 meter rope should work on all the first pitches. The second pitches are not recommended.

Additional Comments
Food and drinks are available at the entrance of the park, and bathrooms are located in several areas, but not so near the crags. PLEASE prepare to not leave a trace at the base, even if others have. The fisherman order in from water taxis, but you'd do well to bring lots of water, some food, sunblock and maybe a bathing suit?

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