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Sinseon Bawi Submitted on October 21st, 2007 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Jeonju
Park: Daedunsan Park Rating: 5.8 - 5.11 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 6221 Photos: 8 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

Description
Mostly bolted slab to face (with a few overhanging sections on the long multipitches) climbs, 15-40+ meters per pitch. There are 10 routes on the rock, 4 of which are 2 pitches, one 4 pitch and one 5 pitch (these have trad pitches, requiring a set of friends). Well-bolted and frequently used by university clubs and climbing schools.


Directions
Busses run from Jeonju, Gunsan, Iksan (infrequently) and Daejeon directly to Daedunsan. From Jeonju or Daejeon, it's a straight shot on road 17. Best to start at the YongMunGol (용문골), or "small entrance" trailhead just a few hundred meters up the road (towards Daejeon) from the main entrance. There's parking available just across from the trail, but it does fill up on weekends! There's no longer a ticket booth here, but you'll pass signs and see a well-worn trail. Follow the trail about 40 minutes to Sinseon Am, a small hermitage built into a natural cave. Here you can rest and fill up on water (and leave an offering for the resident nun). The direct trail to the rock heads up and right from here-- it's steep but pretty obvious. Follow this another 15 minutes or so and you'll see a depression "cave" in the rock with bolts to the right. Head left just around the rock and look/listen for climbers and a well bolted rock face!


Safety Concerns
Bolts are maintained, though there may be some old pieces from the 60s on the long routes. Typical wire anchors; bring extra draws/slings for TRing. There are some long pitches. While one 60 meter rope will allow you to do some first pitches, many are more than 30 meters! This includes, but is not limited to, the 5.9 second from the right--30 meters and the route just left of that--2 pitches, 80 meters. Watch your middle mark and tie a knot in the end of the rope for all routes here!

This place can get very busy on the weekends, with climbing groups. Rocks and gear can fall from above. A helmet is a good idea!

Good hiking shoes are recommended for the approach.


Gear to Bring
A dozen quickdraws, a couple slings, 2 ropes and a set of friends will allow you to do every route here. No trad gear? You can do all but the 4 and 5 pitch.

One 60 meter rope and a dozen draws is minimal to do some of the routes.


Additional Comments
Everything from delicious restaurants, camping, bathrooms. . . available in and just outside the main entrance. Water is available at SinseonAm on the trail. Busy on the weekends; the lowere part of the rock is in the shade, though the upper parts get some sun (and wind).



Comment added by shanja on November 11th, 2009
This is the same as the directions to get to the start of New Millenium Ridge (Sae-Cheon-Nyeon Ridge), and it's p2 starts on the very far right-hand end of the Sinseon Am wall. It is 5 full pitches and needs some cams/ trad pro to do safely as well as about 5 draws.
Be aware that the routes at Sinseon Am are good, but the anchors might need a leaver biner on some routes thesedays...also some routes will take (need?) extra trad pro than the bolts there.
From the rap off of New Millenium Ridge, you will be walking past more sport climbs with shiny new bolts and plaques - this is Dwei-ji Bawi (Pig-Rock). It can also be accessed directly by walking around and below Sinseon Am at the far LEFT and up the scree hiking trail.

Comment added by Bones on November 27th, 2011
The locals were adding shiny chains and big rap rings to all the routes this weekend, no more death triangles at this area! I think the occasional rusty bolts remained, though, because I didn't hear any drilling. Anyways, nice routes on good granite in a beautiful setting!



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