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Description
The type of rock is kind of sedimentary rock.
Route style is face, overhang, crack, crimp.
Length is about 12-15 meter.
Number of routes are 11
Directions
The rock is located besid the road toward Yangsan College in yangsan city.
There is Small river 'bukbucheon' beside the rock
Safety Concerns
bolts is stainless so safe. but lap anchor is not good because of old sling and wire.
Gear to Bring
Just 10 quickdraws work
Additional Comments
there is not water to drink. prepare water.
the rock is west side of the mountain so there are a lot of shade all day long
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Comment added by skinsk on May 7th, 2008
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Nice rock with great positive cracks, pockets and ledges. . . and a drive-up approach! (well, you have to cross a stream, and some of the routes actually start in the stream!) From Yongsan, head towards Yongsan College on a road that follows a dry stream. As you leave the urban part of the city, you'll pass Hanseong Apt on your right. The rock is about 1 kilometer before you reach the college, opposite a coal facility (which hums all the while). You can see the rock down and to the right, and there's a pullout for a couple of cars.
Busses heading to the school might let you off there (though I didn't see any), or it would be an easy taxi ride from town (though maybe difficult to get one back).
Some high first bolts, and the anchors are really scary. If I go back, I'll bring new webbing and a knife. Scramble around left (from the bridge) and you can reach the top to set top-ropes or change the anchors. . . which, did I mention, are really bad. OLD old webbing, rusty rings, or just bolts with no anchors at all. A rope/wire runs along the top, but I am not sure I trust this as much as some of the beefy trees.
Sadly, the opposite side is a little trashed. . . people have dumped stuff by the river, but on the crag side it's pretty clean. A wire brush and metal ring have been left for the ambitious. With a little TLC (and some new anchors) the place really has a lot of promise. . . the rock and routes are quite nice!
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Comment added by skinsk on May 11th, 2008
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OK, so I had nightmares about those anchors, and went and made some changes. . . there are still a few anchors further back on a tree that are rusting and old, but the worst of the worst are gone now!
The changes are shown here:
http://www.koreaontherocks.com/forums/t1476-anchors-away.html
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Comment added by Dong-il on June 11th, 2008
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Good Job, Sonia. I remember that you were scared to rappel that route when we climbed together.
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