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KOTR is looking for a new owner. Are you a developer, a climber and have plans to stay in Korea for a while? If so, email me at [email protected]
BAEKUN DAE Submitted on September 19th, 2006 by CHOI BAWI Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeonggi-Do City: Seoul
Park: Bukhansan Park Rating: 5.7 - 5.11 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 17741 Photos: 1 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

There are three main areas to climb at Baekeun Dae, Baekun Dae Slab, NW Face and NW Face Upper Section. Baekun Dae is typical slabby granite with crack lines, traversy dikes lines and the sort. Baekun Slab is primarily used as an instructive top-roping crag during the weekends by several climbing clubs. There is a variety of cracks and slab in this area ranging from 5.6 to 5.9 in difficulty. The Baekun NW Headwall has an upper and lower area. The routes range from 5.6 to 5.10/A0 in difficulty.

Take the sky-blue line(#4) to Suyu Station. Come out of Exit #4 go directly to the island in the middle of the main road, take buses #130, 170 or 109 toward Ui-dong will take you to the end of the bus line, the base of Insubong. The road leads straight up to the trailhead for Insubong.

APPROACH: The hike from the trailhead is about half an hour to the Insu Ranger Station, from here, follow the trail up to Baekeundae Lodge.

Baekun Slab: To reach the southward facing and more popular Baekun Slab head upward on the main trail for just a few meters and cut immediately right onto a goat path. The goat path will meander diagonally right and up to the base of the Baekun Slab.

Baekun NW Headwall: To reach the northwesterly facing lower and upper headwalls of Baekun Dae, continue on the main path from the Baekun Ranger Station for roughly ten minutes. At the Yongmun Fortress Gate, rather than continue up right and up to Baekeun Peak, follow the trail through gate. The trail will go down and there will be a break in the staircase to the right, take the trail off to the right. Take the goat path off to the right directly off the main trail down and almost immediately after the break in the staircase in order to reach the upper westerly facing crag. In order to reach the base of the main northwest headwall, continue down the main path roughly fifty meters and cutting right at the next goat trail. Follow the trail and work your way down to the base.


Safety Concerns
ANCHORS: Although the bolts of the belay anchors are typically very solid, the Korean habit of slinging them with American triangles is prevalent.

BOLTED ROUTES: Baekeun routes are generally very well bolted; however, there are still routes that still have the out-dated and typically corroded ring-bolts.

RUN-OUT: Baekeun is primarily slab. Koreans love to run it out. SO KEEP THIS IN MIND!!!

CLIMBING TRAFFIC: Baekeun, because of the longer approach in, is generally not as crowded; however, with the increase of companies allowing Saturdays off, also, climbers do abound, especially at Baekun Slab.

Gear to Bring
Baekeun has several bolted routes, but it would be extremely foolish not to bring the minimum of at least a complete rack of cams, five double slings, five single slings, at least ten quick-draws, and the like. Doubling up on the four midrange cams is generally a good idea. One 50M rope will suffice, however 60M rope would be the best bet. Passive gear would be a bonus; however, placements for them are very limited. Although not neccessary, a small off-set friend rack is handy on some of the flaring cracks routes. DEFINITELY BRING AT LEAST A FEW DISPOSABLE SLINGS FOR THOSE LESS THAN OPPORTUNE RAPS!

Additional Comments
PARK FEE: 1,600WON for the Bukhan National Park entrance fee.

ABSEILING: Abseiling can be done via the route up; however, it is may be more work than it's worth due to the zig-zagging of certain rotues. Certain other abseil points must be done with two 60M ropes.

CAMPING: Camping is not generally allowed in this area; however, only because it is so deep in the park and off the beaten path that the rangers will doubtfully ever check on you. Even if they did find you, your gear would be evidence enough that you have come to climb. ABSOLUTELY NO FIRES ALOUD!!!!

If you are caught, the penalty is 500,000WON!!! And if you are caught, you could probably get away by playing the "idiot foreigner". But, please remember, you are in Korea, so try to respect their system and way of doing things. A simple apology and promise that you will not do it again without prior notice or permission is usually acceptable.

Also, remember that special exceptions are almost never made for foreigners when they violate a law back home. So let's try to be above the "idiot foreigner" mentality because you have read this and now you know.

WATER: Water can be sought at the Baekeun Sanjang or ranger station. There is no water within the vicinity of the base of the NW Headwall area.

FOOD: Kimbap and foods can be either purchased down by the all the shops or just in front of the trailhead.

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