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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas

Opera House Submitted on June 19th, 2006 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Jinan
Park: Maisan Park Rating: 5.10 - 5.14 Style: Sport
Views: 5792 Photos: 20 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 7 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
As of May 1 2010, Opera House was closed by the park officials. Hopefully, this is not permanent, but the local climbing clubs have removed most of their gear.


SEVERELY overhanging "Maisan" conglomerate. I've climbed there in the rain and it's quite dry! Looks like pebbles to boulders cemented together with numerous pockets, edges, etc.

Largely the domain of Jeonju Climbing Center and Sunwoon Climbers (of Gunsan), this overhanging "ampitheater" was spotted 7 years ago, but development really happened in 2006 and it now sports about 12 routes . . . new routes are still being developed and added. One 10b? (far right; or stage left for you theatre folks), a 10c, a 10d, two 11b's (the shorter route in the middle, Maisan Tango features, an awesome crux, you have to reach way up from the low undercling after the 5th bolt to the chalked-up pocket) and up from there! Maisan Tango is the sweet classic line 3rd? from right? On my last visit (12/2007), most route names/grades were written (and in some cases, crossed out, debated and rewrtitten!) below the climbs.

As with other climbs in the park, the routes here do have loose rocks, and as some of them are new and/or rarely climbed, tend to be dirty/gritty. Pro is solid and plentiful and the falls are super clean!


Directions
From the small entrance of Maisan Provincial Park, head past the small lake with the swan boats until you see the hiking trails sign on your left-- the same one to Al Bawi, the other climbing area (if coming from the main entrance, head over the pass, past the temples and look right before you get to the lake). You can check the navigational images for photo of this sign. Don't follow the arrows, but rather the trail directly behind the sign! Keep walking along the trail and you'll come to a steep, short wall on your left. . . after a few meters, it gets less steep, and on closer inspection becomes a third class scramble up the grey part. head up . . . towards the top are some trees, then a clearing, at which time you will see rock straight ahead and some trails that will lead right to the aptly-named Opera House.

It is also accessible via 5th class scrambling (climbing shoes recommended) if you head down the main hiking trail (towards Al Bawi) and turn right on the first unmarked side trail just after the bridge. Keep following the gnarly dry stream-bed-type trail to the end (you'll be boxed in by rocks, with nowhere to go but up and over to your right). . . this way might save you a few minutes if you are coming from the other climbing areas.


Safety Concerns
Steep approaches (whether you come from the left or right) merit good approach shoes/climbing shoes.

Rockfall frequent enough that I belayed with a helmet! JCC cleans the routes pretty thoroughly when they put them up, but this conglomerate can come apart at any time. Bolts are, however, in the biggest, sturdiest "bolders" of the conglomerate, and seemed very solid. Anchors are typical death triangles with wires and gated fishhooks. Many draws are "permanent" and a little old and sticky.

JCC is still developing the area, and it is also used for dry-tooling practice, so caution (helmets or avoiding nearby routes) should be taken during this activity.


Gear to Bring
50 meter rope and dozen draws should do-- a helmet is a good idea. A wire brush for cleaning holds is nice to have. Excellent opportunities for awesome photos, so bring that camera!


Additional Comments
Water, food, restrooms are not available after you leave the main trail. The last place to get them is by the boathouse on the small lake.

Faces the sun most of the day, but while many routes are overhanging enough to see little of it, those on the right (including the easiest), get the most. Attractive "orchestra seating area" safely back for watching people send!

JCC (as a Jeonjuite for 3 years, I'm a bit prejudiced) folks have a keen eye for esthetic and/or interesting lines. They've developed this area, some classics at Sununsan. . . they take pride in their developing, and I have a lot of trust in their routes!



Comment added by shanja on October 2nd, 2008
There is a camp-ground just by the lake area...and if you like you can call in and reserve a place. They have tents and sleeping bags for those without their own. Prices are below, valid 2008-10-04. If you are camoping here, then you can usually get free access to the park and drive right up (but you need to call the Management Office and Campground in advance).
Maisan Management Office/ 마이산 관리사무소: 063-433-3313Youth Hostel Camp Ground/ 청소년 야영장: 063-432-8884

Yurt (Mon-Gol Tent/몽골 텐트).
Only 1. Sleeps 20 people. Cost 10,000w + 4,000w/person
Cabin-Tents (캐빈 텐트) Many available, each sleeps 8 people.Cost 5,000w + 4,000w/person
Roofed-open Shelter (천막 텐트)8 Available, sleeps 10 people. Cost 10,000won + 4,000w/person
Sleeping bags provided free with all rentals (no rent, no free sleeping bag).

Comment added by MisterP on May 2nd, 2010
This place was closed. We went up to check it out and there was a group taking out the bolts. They said it is protected and no one can climb it. I said, "how long?" they said, "finished" I said,"Forever?" they said "FOR EV ER!!!"

I said, "damn"

Comment added by Eric on June 2nd, 2010
Climbing closed: http://www.koreaontherocks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2621

Comment added by snapdragon on June 18th, 2010
That is just sad.



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