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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas > Search Results

Mi-Reuk-Jang-Goon Bong Submitted on June 8th, 2006 by punchy Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gangwon-Do City: Sokcho
Park: Seoraksan Park Rating: 5.6 - 5.11 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 9601 Photos: 7 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 1 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
rock type: granite

style: crack, face, slab, overhang

excellent rock quality. solid granite. nice cracks with room for bomber pro. beautiful golden slabs, bolted for your pleasure.

bomber bolted belay stations with some bolts for protection on the south wall plus lots of places for natural pro.

the north wall is not as tall, but boasts some nice sport pitches right over a stream. bolts and anchors are solid.


Directions
from sokcho, you can get a bus to jangsudae on the other side of seoraksan park. this bus, taken from the shi-way bus terminal, will take you through yang-yang, past the osaek hot springs and over the mountain pass. when you get let off at the jangsudae entrance of the park, head inside to register to climb. costs a few chunwons. make sure to let them know when you come back out. you can catch the bus back to sokcho from the other side of the road.

after registering, walk down the road in the same direction the bus was heading. hike for about five minutes until you see a sign on the right with two cartoon bears pointing outh the trail is off limits. walk past this sign and follow the trail up into the forest. a twenty minute hike will take you to the river where you can access both walls. long beautiful mixed (trad/bolted) multipitch on your right and shorter sport multipitch on your left.


Safety Concerns
despite the seeming remoteness of this valley, some of the climbs here, particularly "go-rak" and "titan" see a fair amount of traffic. bolts, belay stations and rock quality are all excellent.


Gear to Bring
you'll need two 60 meter ropes to get down. a small trad rack will suffice, as most pitches are interspersed with the scattered bolt, piton or gnarled tree (so bring slings). a rack of midrange cams (nothing too small or too big needed) 10-12 draws are sufficient. remember water. and a camera if you're able. the views are stunning.


Additional Comments
although i haven't explored many of the climbs in this area, one of the climbs i did do, "go-rak" (5.10a; 10 pitches) is by far the best route i've climbed in korea. with quality rock and quality climbing, every pitch has something wonderful to offer. balancy slab. overhanging offwidth. splitter cracks. beautiful route. highly recommended.

note: as is the custom, any of the crux sections can be aided through by pulling on slings threaded through bolts.



Comment added by Ilsanbro on May 26th, 2008
To reach Jangsudae from Seoul you can take a direct bus from the Dong Seoul Bus Terminal(green line) in Southeast Seoul. The last bus leaves on Friday night at 19:50. This trip takes about 3 hours leaving you at Wontong Bus Terminal, from here it is another 20-30 minutes to Jangsudae. The tickets cost about 17,000 won. The bus to Jansudae drops you off at the ranger station.

Currently there is no camping aloud at Jangsudae, the old campsite has been destroyed. However, there is a wonderful Hotel(the old abandoned building near the campground) that has been newly renovated and is excellent. The hotel offers amazing amenities; including a spa, singing room and scenic decks to enjoy the cold beer that is served at the restaurant on the first floor. Also, we brought along our own food and cooked it in the kitchen that is offered near the rooms. If you split this place with a few others the 50,000 won fee is not bad, it's by far the nicest place I have stayed in Korea! The Jangsudae Garden might be busy during the weekend but you can call ahead to reserve your spot. 011-9749-2276 or 033-463-5292

Please be kind to the owners, they are great folks!

If you leave Seoul late Friday night the next best option is to take a bus from Express Bus Terminal(orange line) to Sokcho. Buses here leave every 30 minutes and the trip is about 3 hours costing you 22,000 won. Once you arrive in Sokcho ask a taxi driver to take you to the Shi Way(local) Bus Terminal, should cost you 4,000 won. Here you can rest for the night at the Hotel across the street for 30,000 won. Buses from Shi Way to Jangsudae leave every hour. We caught the 8:05 bus which took about an hour to Jangsudae and cost us 5,000 won. The bus drops you off right at the ranger station.

Once you arrive you still need to register with the rangers' to climb in the area. Registration is free these days and should only take a few minutes.

Once you leave the registration head right down the road. Walk about 5-10 minutes until you pass an island in the road and come across a sign with two cartoon bears reading, "stay out." Take a right at this sign into the forest, you should see tracks heading back. Follow this trail for about 15 minutes, as it takes you next to the creek bed. Walking up the left side of the creek bed you will notice a man-made platform. Walk past the platform about 50 meters and you will see a few bolted routes on your left.

The first bolted route on the left goes up an arete and is said to go at 10c. This route goes up 4 pitches, the third being the hardest, 11a. The next route to the right is a mixed route(you need a small cam, or two) and goes at 10a. Again, to the right, following another arete, this route goes at 10b, bolted the whole way. Finally, to the right of a memorial plaque, is another 10a that is bolted the whole way. Most, or all of these routes are multi-pitches but a lot of loose rock up top, wear a helmet. Also, you can naturally protect almost all of these routes, most of the bolts are not needed!

Reaching Go-Rak, the famous multi-pitch, is located just to the right of the bolted sport routes. Once you see the routes head to the right up the steep hill until you reach a slab. At the slab you should locate a tin sign displaying the direction for Go-Rak. The climb is only about 7 pitches and could be less if you linked more of the pitches together. I was expecting a lot more hard climbing but it was actually a really mellow route. Tons of bolts, many of which you can overlook and throw in a piece. The crux can be protected with a .5 camalot and a 4 camalot, you dont have to use the bolts. Also, you know its the crux because there are two ugly blue runners hanging from shiny bolts in the midst of a number of perfect cracks! Be careful while rappelling down, there are a number of gnarled trees and cracks to get your rope stuck.

The topo that Greg uploaded is perfect for the route! This climb is really fun and is a must for any adventure climber. Not super hard, but really exposed and for once I felt like I was actually in the mountains! The Saturday we went there was not a soul on the face and it was truly incredible.



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