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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas

Ul Bawi Submitted on May 29th, 2006 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Chungcheongbuk-Do City: Cheongju
Park: Songnisan Park Rating: 5.8 - 5.12 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 5017 Photos: 22 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 2 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
Nice quality roadside crag with something for everyone in 22 routes. Face climbing with some corners, edges, even some cracks .Bouldery starts and a little run-out on some (easier) routes. Then there are some overhanging routes, and finally, some massively overhanging roofs, several with big juggy holds. Grades to 12a. Everything is accessable via a short scramble to the top, so no worries about leaving draws if you want to jump on something hard The longest route is 16 meters, but that figures in severe roof/overhangs. The shortest routes are 9 meters.


Directions
The rock is right at the small entrance to Hwayang Valley, near the 자연학습원 Nature Study Center (which has it's own campground, just across from the rock). Road 32 goes around the valley and leads right to the rock. It's just outside the ticket booth. The red arrow on the map (see navigational images) points almost directly to Ul Bawi. It's closer to Sonyudong than to the Hwayang-dong entrance.

I am not sure if busses go to this side of the valley (to Sonyudong) but I believe they do, from Cheongju Inner-city terminal, where you can at least catch a bus for the hour long trip to Hwayang-dong. The walk in from this interest involves a pleasant 3k trip through the valley on flat paved/brick roads. Climbing/bouldering/ splashing around possibilities abound in this really lovely valley, though I am guessing it is crowded in the summer. With minbak reservations, one can drive as far as 채운사 (temple), otherwise there is a parking lot just past the ticket booth.


Safety Concerns
Typical steel cable anchors with giant fish hooks. Bolts look good. Bouldery starts but a nice, flat landing. No real safety concerns.


Gear to Bring
While mostly a sport area, there are some cracks and the book notes that "excaliber" 3-5 supplement the bolts on the 5.8 crack. . . a 3.5 is handy on one of the 11b roof/overhangs and a 4.5 for one of the 12as. The rest of the routes have 3-5 bolts, so a 50 meter rope and 8 draws will suffice.


Additional Comments
There is a shop/restaurant almost adjacent to the cliff where you can get basic amenities. Swimming and splashing in the river is a definite option. I was there on a rainy overcast day; I imagine due to the park-and-belay nature of the crag, it could be busy in the summer months.



Comment added by skinsk on June 8th, 2006
If you're coming from Seoul (Nambu Terminal) via public transport, here's the bus schedule to Cheongju.

http://www.koreaontherocks.com/climbing/gallery.php?view=2&page=1&area_id=152&photo_nav=1& sort=

Comment added by shanja on October 10th, 2006
This place seemed a wee bit sandbagged when we hit it up in Chuseok (2006). The main vertical wall has a dirty dodgy corner on the far left with no on route anchor. After that it goes (L-R) somethinng like 5.11d, 5.11c, 5.11a, 5.11c, 5.10a and 5.10b/c....or so we were told by some local Cheonju climbers we met. Incidentally they were chipping a new hold on the righthand 5.11c and adding a new bolt. Apparently the crag gets bugger all traffic as it is so short and hard...Round a bit are the overhang routes which looked unclimbed in some time, maybe because there are a big bad hive of dodgy looking wasp/hornets living in there. But that said we had a good time and it is a beautiful site with the river a mere stones throw away. Most bolts looked OK but the anchors are not well placed on some routes. If TR-ing use the trees at the top and some slings.

Comment added by swixjohnson on June 17th, 2011
There was some bolt and anchor replacement recently on the main wall. A few (not on main wall) routes are not safe at the moment due to rusty bolts. The wall a bit to the right is mixed with some over hang routes that look good with solid bolts. The location is quite nice with the river across from the crags and the valley is lovely. The restuarant is still open and serving. At the moment there are aboout 14 climbable routes that we located. Have fun...



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