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Bagaji Bawi Submitted on May 4th, 2004 by Eric Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Chungcheongnam-Do City: Daejeon
Park: Gyeryongsan Park Rating: 5.8 - 5.11 Style: Sport
Views: 11927 Photos: 13 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 1 Image(s) - Add Images

Bagaji Bawi is all granite, some of it is solid and some is a little crumbly. There are about 2 dozen climbs here. One 5.8, three 5.9, twelve 5.10 and seven 5.11 climbs. Most of the climbs are under 30 meters though there are a few where a 60 meter rope is required.

One the left side of the wall there are a few slab climbs. As you move toward the right side of the wall there are some overhanging and face climbs.

Some of the bolts are a little old. Some of the rock a little rotten. Be careful on the right side of the wall. Lots of falling rock.

From Gyeryongsan National Park, go to the camping area. Walk to the back of the camp grounds and hop the fence. Head up the prominent ridge. Quickly you should pick up a trail that starts heading up the ridge, as well as the small gully. The trail will take you all the way up to the face. The hike will take 15 to 30 minutes depending on your pace.

Safety Concerns
Beware of rock fall on the right side of the wall. Some climbs are run-out to the point of decking. Take cams if you are unsure about a climb. The rock seems to be the most crumbily in the middle of the wall.

Gear to Bring
You should take a 60 meter rope if possible as well as 12 draws. I have also been on climbs here where I needed to place some gear. I set of cams and slings could come in handy on a few climbs.

Additional Comments
You can pick up water abd use a bathrooom at the camp ground. After you head into the woods, there are no more modern conveniences. Some of the routes stay fairly wet for a while so climbing here 1 or 2 days after a rain can be difficult. Also, I have heard that this place has been closed though everytime I go there I see other Korean climbers.

Comment added by antepater on June 4th, 2004
Hey I loved this place. The rock was good enough for friction and smearing. I didn't do any of the really hard routes,(2=5.9) but thoroughly enjoyed the slab.
The anchor bolts are pulling out on the 2 climbes we did and I used a long cordalette instead of the ADT they have set to reduce stress on the 1 good bolt. There are really suspect webbing and rusted wires along with a couple of bolts that have walked out. There was some run out but with a little gear you can sew up all the parts that create nut sweat.
The place is easy to find and straight forward but a bit of a hike. Be sure and get your water and snacks before hand.
Peace and Thanks to Eric for showing us this place. Tomas

Comment added by kirbyf16 on August 22nd, 2005
N36 21 12.8 E127 14 40.6 is at the base.
It's probably just the overgrown time of year, but we followed the trail along the ridge briefly before it turned right following the creek (bed) steeply up for a while before it petered out completely. We followed the creek (bed) up to the base of the wall, but the only other trails we found continued up from the base, not back down.

Incredible views from the top!

Comment added by shanja on May 28th, 2008
As of 2008 sometime this park requires all climbers to get a permit! This is easy and quick. Go to the Touro-info Office up near the main entrance (from bus stop walk up the main trail past shops 100m or so and it's right there near the Mushroom Restaurant/ Road-block).
You need to submit names and resident (local or alien card) numbers.
Also, there is a new fence that blocks off the old access trail to OB and Hwangjok climbing areas. Two gates let you hike in to these as well as Bakaji bawi. Just right of the Camp Ground Office, or from the back of the camp ground near a big green water tank. Do not just hop the fence.
Some routes on Bakaji have pretty old dodgy bolts, be careful! Also the bolt placing can be a little funky and run-out. Take a few cams/ nuts for peace of mind. The anchor on the far left routes (beginner routes) is two bolts and a Death triangle. One bolt is suspect. Two routes use this anchor. Do the math, do the smart thing. Take a loooong sling and a locking biner up and use the super solid tree just above this anchor instead.
But don't be too put off, it is a good area with lots of potential for safe faun climbing. The hike in is more like 30-40 minutes though, and up a leaf covered scree trail. Good shoes and daylight recommmended for sure. Awesome views from the tops of all climbs.

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