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Ae Bawi Submitted on May 7th, 2006 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeongsangnam-Do City: Geoje
Park: Hallyeo Haesang Park Rating: 5.8 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 19751 Photos: 10 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 13 Image(s) - Add Images

애바위 features eleven routes with some variations; grades are written beneath routes. Routes are two pitches from 43-62m. Belays are on good ledges. Bolts are new; expansion bolts if you look closely, but they do stick out a bit more than usual!! Anchors are typical metal loops cinched and clamped together between two bolts. There's a solid beefy rap ring at the summit.

Routes are slabby to overhung with some roofs, bulges, corners and a prominent arete.

This area was developed in 2001, by the Geojedo Ujeong Alpine Club. They made some nice terraces below the climbs. You could easily camp there-- there are level (but rocky) places for several tents.

Ae Bawi is on the east-central coast of Geoje-do, in Ilun-myeon (일운면), off country road 5, which is off national road 14, which is the same road that connects Geoje Island to Tongyeong in the central-western part. You can get a direct bus from Jinan (which inevitably stops everywhere in between) to Jangseungpo (장승포)-- the closest city in Geoje (with a bus terminal) to the climbing. Be sure to specify Jangseungpo when you buy your ticket to Geoje-do. If you're coming from the west, a better bet is the ferry from Busan to Jangseungpo Port (7/day; weather permitting), which takes just 45 minutes and can be a pretty exciting ride! From the bus terminal or the port, just about all busses heading south travel along Hwy 14. All of the bus stops are written (along with previous and next stops) on the stop, in Hangul. The turnoff for County Road 5 is just after Gujora Beach. If you miss the turnoff, you will get to the village of Mangjiri (망지리 마을), where you can see Ae Bawi above the farms on the inland side. It's the obvious rock straight ahead. You can get to the main trailhead (on CR5) from here on foot by following the road up the hill into the village right down from the bus stop. . . when the road ends just go around the field and up the trail that leads up the hill (most of it alongside barbed wire). From the CR5 trailhead (there's a small pullout for people with cars), take the trail heading back into the woods near the pullout/signs. The small sign with the coordinates, trail map, etc shows the trail you want as the one to 452 봉. A few meters down the trail you will see a signpost pointing the way to 애바위암장, 600m. For the next 600m there are several small white signs with 애바위 in red and yellow ribbons with 애바위on them! See navigational photos for sign references in these directions!

Safety Concerns
Anchors have solid rap rings (not clip ins) on the belays/summit, so be prepared for that. A daisy to clip in with, or long sling.

One 60 meter rope is good, but you'll have to rap twice. from the summit. There are ledges to stop at on the way down. Tie knots in the end of the rope.

Some runout areas (3m+) but on routes we did, the runout was on easier terrain (than the grade).

Some loose holds and loose flakes, etc on/near routes. . . also lots of pebbles accumulated on ledges/summit.

Gear to Bring
A dozen draws, something to clip into the anchors with, and a 60 meter rope would do. 2 ropes would let you rap in one go.

If you belay with a gri-gri, bring something to rap with. A helmet is not a bad idea.

Additional Comments
Mangjiri and all of the coastal villages have min-bak, hotels, restaurants, shops. . . some of the beaches look pretty nice. It was all but deserted this long holiday weekend in May, but I am guessing the place is packed during summer vacation season. The Toto Pension (토토 펜션) is about half way up CR5 between HWy 14 and the trailhead; the sign pointing the way from HWY 14 is another good marker for the turnoff.

Gyerongsan, also on Geoje-do, (near City Hall) has some routes on it (mostly trad/TR but one bolted 10c), and may be worth checking out. For boulderers, most of the coastline features short rocky cliffs. Might afford some deep-water bouldering (i.e., one slip and you swim) in the summer months!

Comment added by shanja on July 26th, 2010
If you are coming down from anywhere North, the Tong-Yeong Expressway (#35) takes you all the way to Geoje-do Bridge, just get off at toll gates and stick to route 14 as it swings all the way around the Northpart of Geoje-do and down the East coast to Il-un-myeon County, and Gujora Beach area. The Country Road 5 (지방도 5) turn-off has about 20 sign arrows at it, but none saying Country Road 5! It's actually called Gujora Samgeori, and just after you drive past and above the beach, it's a right turn up-hill past many "pensions" and then through a mountain winding road till the car-bay (about 5-10mins drive). If you drove instead past Geoje City Hall (and the POW Museum) you can take Country Road 8 (지방도 8) to Il-un-myeon, which is a lot faster.
At the time we went, summer the minbaks etc were almost all full and very expensive.

Comment added by climb.or.marc on April 2nd, 2018
Better to drive the back way as described above. Traffic through the towns on the east coast down Hwy 14 can get pretty ridiculous - classic beach town with one or two red lights that block up the whole highway.

There are now two wood platforms for camping or picnics at the base. Each route has the name and grade painted on the bottom. Some have been downgraded from Dong Il Ryon's guidebook. See updated topo.

Alpine is now a one pitch route according to the locals, although there are bolts for a second pitch. Friendship was downgraded and is basically the route up the arete.

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