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Sangsa Bawi (Halmae Bawi) Submitted on April 20th, 2006 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Jeonju
Park: n/a Rating: 5.5 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 7205 Photos: 3 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 4 Image(s) - Add Images

Crumbly version of the local limestone, but slabby-vertical (the summit domes). Several bolted routes (2 pitches and a scramble-- roped-- to the summit). It's in the middle-of-farmland nowhere, but the small town life and quaint villages and farms definitely make this place worth checking out for lunch and for a drive, but not for the climbing!!

Couldn't see the anchors, but the rock was uninspiring. The routes are the main (L of the roof) face you see from the road. Don't know the grades (very broad guess).

You pretty much need a car, though there are local bus stops on the road, I didn't see a single bus! Leaving Jeonju on Highway 27 south, and head to Shinpyeong-myeon, then turn left on 49. You'll be on a beautiful drive through the rolling hills, past a sign for Imshil-gun where the road heads back down. There's not many places to get lost, so just enjoy the drive! Shinsa-bawi is shortly after 49 runs into 749. . . keep heading straight. You'll see a sign for the Shina Motel and the rock pretty prominent on your left, overlooking the farms. It's just past the SK gas station, across the street from the Sangsa Motel (see navigational photos). Just past the motel and across the street, you can turn on a paved (farm) road and park where you can when you see the green building. The best approach is a fixed rope up the least steep slope, head up about 10 meters left of the green building. The rope is about a minute up the trail. When the rope ends veer right to the base; look for the bolys. Obviously you could scramble up anywhere, but there are so many loose rocks, leaves, etc. . . even the fixed line is sketchy.

Safety Concerns
The bolts were shiny, but the hangers were so coroded and rusty that even the very simple start was intimidating. . . if they didn't hold a fall I wouldn't be surprised. Lots of loose rock, not much signs of visitors. Saw a snake!! A good 2 meters though near the unpaved road. Locals seemed unaware of climbing activities when asked by a Korean.
The approach was dodgy, even if you use the fixed line. Gloves, long pants/sleeves and good shoes for the approach
Rockfall, especially on multi-pitches is always a concern. Prepare and act accordingly.

Gear to Bring
The routes are bolted, so maybe 15 quickdraws, some slings for the anchors or to rope foliage; 2 ropes would be best for rapping if you go to the summit. You might even rappel out down the slope.

Additional Comments
Nearby towns offer bare necessities, but there is a gas station and a motel. No English in these parts, and lots of curiousity, in a suspicious sort of way.

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