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Siru Bawi Submitted on April 20th, 2006 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Imsil
Park: n/a Rating: 5.10 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 5242 Photos: 6 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

Limestone reminiscent of Halmaebawi and Sununsan, nearby or even Kan-hyon. Fifteen overhanging routes from 10b to 12 c/d, but they are mostly "manufactured". . . and pretty sharp.

The bolts are new and there are many (6-10) on each short route, with the usual steel clasped and fish-hook triangle anchors (some kinda twisty). Some artificial holds have been added to routes on the right. . . hmmmm. The rock is a little dirty, especially where you might smear your feet to start.

You pretty much need a car, though there are local bus stops on the road, I didn't see a single bus! Leaving Jeonju on Highway 17 south, turn right on 745 (right after Imshil Station)and head S. There's a lot of beautiful scenery on the winding road through the hills, past a few small hamlets . . . and you eventually come to the tiny village of Hakam (the road turns into a giant paved circle near a b us stop and giant stone with "Hakam" carved in it.Head into the village, a maze of farm roads, towards the rock (visible in the distance) and bridge behind the village (best to take the turnoff right (and down), just before the bridge. . . 4 wheel drive will get you closer. . . otherwise you might have to cross through high "grasses"/wet fields. There are several rock faces rocks, so look for the distinctive black streeks and overhang (to the left of the smaller rock with the small cave-let).

Safety Concerns
Well, the anchors as described are always a concern (the 10b with artificial holds has an old rope running through the bolts with an old biner attached. . . something to change this out or back it up would be a service to future climber. Loose rocks are always a concern, and there were some large flakes/holds that wiggled and knocked around. I'd strongly recommend a helmet for belaying at least.

Gear to Bring
A 50 meter rope and 12 draws would do you. Extra chalk in summer.

Additional Comments
It's in the sun and the wind has wrecked havoc on the 'shade shelter' so some shelter or something to construct one would be nice. It's a little swampy.

The drive from Jeonju is beautiful, but the roads are steep switchbacks through the mountains. the rewards are views and quaint towns (buildings with mud walls!) untouched by the highway. The farm roads through Hakam are very narrow and many dead-end. Don't forget your camera!

There is a Hakam Super, and a few places to get some supplies and practice your Korean. Stay in Imshil or near Sangsa bawi at the Sangsa-motel. I'm sure other motels light up somewhere, or possibly you could camp. (Though in three trips here now, the common factor is incredible winds! Bring a wind-proof jacket for sure!!

Comment added by richter on April 8th, 2010
The far left climb is the 10b with two artificial holds. Its anchor now uses a steel cable.

The main face has 18 climbs (not 15), and the much easier slab-like face to the right consists of 2 or 3 5.9s.

I was told the whole area floods in the wet season. You can see a very faint waterline along the bottom of the face.

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