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Palgongsan Submitted on March 26th, 2006 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeongsangbuk-Do City: Daegu
Park: Palgongsan Park Rating: 5.6 - 5.12 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 7734 Photos: 3 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

Granite slab to slightly overrhanging and lots of verical in between. The main climbing areas in the park are Sutaegol/수태골 (Bauitgol/바윗골) north face (16 routes, 5.8-5.12 sport mostly- verrtical to overhanging, one unbolted 5.8 crack) south face (slab and crack mostly, 5.6-5.12, A0) and Byeongpung Bawi (5.8-5.11 with some aid routes and multi-pitch) . . . but we also saw (and climbed) other routes with bolts and/or anchors. Rocks rocks everywhere!

Bus 105 goes to the park, to Dongwonsa.

From the very well numbered ridge path (from Gatbawi), head straight down (scramble or rappel) to Byeongpung Bawi-- it's almost straight up from Yeombulam/염불암 (Hermitage). . . follow the paved road from Dongwonsa parking lot.

There is a Sutaegol trail for that destination.

Safety Concerns
There is an outhouse-sized first aid cache at the base of Byeongpung Bawi! lots of old webbing hanging off the bolt ladders, but everything looked pretty good. Lose rock (especially climbing below trails) could be a problem.

Long-ish and some steep approaches.

Gear to Bring
Most routes on Sutaegol are under 30 meters (except Ace 1, a 5.7 slab crack that's 38!) so one 60 meter rope and a dozen draws minimum for the bolted routes. Byeongpung Bawi is mostly multi-pitch, so if you want to get to the top, 2 ropes are necessary. The easiest route here, 5.8, is a blocky crack system around the left corner.

Additional Comments
Concessions at the start of the trails. Water is available from wells at the hermitages throught the park. Byeongpung is mostly in the sun (with lots of shade at the base), Sutaegol offers a N and S face, otherrwise, most of the rocks face the sun!

Comment added by Tonypetro on October 4th, 2012
Single rappel with 2x60m ropes, but a single is suitable for a double rappel.

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