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Uiam Submitted on March 21st, 2006 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeonggi-Do City: Seoul
Park: Bukhansan Park Rating: 5.9 - 5.13 Style: Traditional
Views: 6853 Photos: 9 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 2 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
Bukhansan granite in the Dobongsan region. U-i-am (우이암) is a prominent tilting pinnacle with mostly aid routes, but a few cracks and run-out slabs. Down the path just before the shelter (우이산장) is another rock with some cracks and 3 well placed bolts, 자유동반?, an 11b? that would accept med-small gear.

Uiam has an overhanging fingers to offwidth 13 crack. . . to the left of the main "blob" from that is a 10c crack. . . there are several A0 bolt ladders to the summit as well as cross-slab runout routes. Aiders and draws will work on most of the aid routes, but bring gear and you can try several one pitch cracks.


Directions
Bus 8 (small and green) runs through Dobong-dong to 무수골 (Musugol), the park entrance you'll go through if you go to Dobong Station (keep following the road that goes by the river/bike path!!). . . just past a temple is Ui Mountain Shelter (sells coffee, ramyon, makkoli, soda and GATORADE!!), on the left is the 11b? and up the path a wee bit more is Uiam. You can also get there from the main entrance (Dobangan Station on the subway) by following the signs to Uiam. It's slightly longer (I think), about 2.7 (vs 2.1?)k, but the kilometerage changes with each sign.
Finally, there is an Ui Ticket Booth, closer to Suyu Station. . . you can get a bus. . .


Safety Concerns
Some of the hangers spun (and some were those really flat type) but they seemed solid. The webbing on the aid routes may be suspect, though Koreans do channge aid webbing with some regularity in general.


Gear to Bring
Any and all gear can be used here. Aiders are ideal, but a trad rack would be nice. The 11b can be toproped from a scramble up the back. There are some bolt/piton protected slabs on Uiam.


Additional Comments
The Ui Shelter is just down the path. Basic supplies and shelter are available there. . . so make a weekend of it if you haul everything up there! Routes are pretty sunny. Sat early season it was pretty busy, with several climbing clubs.



Comment added by goclimbing on September 28th, 2018
Check my blog for newer information (07/2018) www.mydaysinkorea.com/2018/07/02/climbing-uiam-rock/



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