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가래비-GAREBI Submitted on January 15th, 2006 by CHOI BAWI Print
Type: Ice Climbs Province: Gyeonggi-Do City: Uijeongbu
Park: n/a Rating: 3 - 4 Views: 17533
Photos: 4 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 1 Image(s) - Add Images    

Garebi is actually the name of the town located in Uijeongbu. The ice climbing park was previously a quarry and is located just on the outskirts of the small town no more than a few miles. The average length of each fall is roughly twenty-five meters. There are only a few anchors, but plenty of trees to make your own from. All routes are perpendicular from the deck.

Just below the main wall, there is another ice fall roughly ten to fifteen meters in length, too. There are no anchors, however, atop this fall, but plenty of ice to make your own anchor.

There is also some mixed climbing and dry-tooling typically to the left and the right of the main falls.

WI 3~4

From Suyu Station(Line 4), the bus number 133 to Garebi. Get off in Garebi at the Hyundai gas station, cross the street, go over the bridge and hang a left. Continue down this road for maybe just less than a mile until you reach another Hyundai gas station. Follow the construction road directly across from the station uphill for roughly less than a quarter of mile. You can't miss it.

Safety Concerns
The lack of anchors and the typical large crowds are really the own safety problems.

Gear to Bring
I would recommend bringing an extra sling roughly 8-20 meters to make your own anchor off the trees from above. Ice screws are not neccessary here, as one can walk around to the top and set up a top-roping anchor.

Additional Comments
The local stores are unlikely to have gas. There is also no nearby shop, so do your shopping in town before the walk in. This place seems to busy every day of the week during winter, but do your best to especially avoid this place on the weekends. Finally, the small town of Garebi has decided to invest some money within the next few years in order to turn this area into a climbing park. Especially, look forward to some nice changes.

Comment added by Eric on January 15th, 2006
Ice grades from The Alpinist.

Mixed Grade:

These routes require considerable dry tooling (modern ice tools used on bare rock) and are climbed in crampons; actual ice is optional but some ice is usually involved.

M1-3: Easy. Low angle; usually no tools.
M4: Slabby to vertical with some technical dry tooling.
M5: Some sustained vertical dry tooling.
M6: Vertical to overhanging with difficult dry tooling.
M7: Overhanging; powerful and technical dry tooling; less than 10m of hard climbing.
M8: Some nearly horizontal overhangs requiring very powerful and technical dry tooling; bouldery or longer cruxes than M7.
M9: Either continuously vertical or slightly overhanging with marginal or technical holds, or a juggy roof of 2 to 3 body lengths.
M10: At least 10 meters of horizontal rock or 30 meters of overhanging dry tooling with powerful moves and no rests.
M11: A ropelength of overhanging gymnastic climbing, or up to 15 meters of roof.
M12: M11 with bouldery, dynamic moves and tenuous technical holds.

Water Ice and Alpine Ice Grades:

Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. The following descriptions approximate the average systems. The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often substituted for year-around Alpine Ice and may be easier than a WI grade with the same number. Canadians often drop the WI symbol and hyphenate the technical grade after the Canadian commitment grade’s Roman numeral (example: II-5).

WI1: Low angle ice; no tools required.
WI2: Consistent 60º ice with possible bulges; good protection.
WI3: Sustained 70º with possible long bulges of 80º-90º; reasonable rests and good stances for placing screws.
WI4: Continuous 80º ice fairly long sections of 90º ice broken up by occasional rests.
WI5: Long and strenuous, with a ropelength of 85º-90º ice offering few good rests; or a shorter pitch of thin or bad ice with protection that’s difficult to place.
WI6: A full ropelength of near-90º ice with no rests, or a shorter pitch even more tenuous than WI 5.Highly technical.
WI7: As above, but on thin poorly bonded ice or long, overhanging poorly adhered columns. Protection is impossible or very difficult to place and of dubious quality.
WI8: Under discussion.

Comment added by garyclimbskorea on February 3rd, 2010
Directions and info update:
From Suyu station it takes roughly 1.5 hours on bus 133, so hang in there. Alternatively the 133 stops outside Yangju Stn (line 1, catch bus on the opposite side of the big road outside the main entrance - about 30 mins from here).
Once you get off at the Hyundai Gas Station, cross the bridge and turn left, there is no second Hyundai Gas Station - I learnt this on foot the hard way! You pass an SK Gas Station on your left about half way after the bridge. I added photos of the right turn you should take after just less than a mile from the bridge. There is a rice field opposite and immediately to the right of the road where you make a right.
Also, after you cross the bridge, in front of you, there is a store now that sells everything from makolee to ladies panithose.

Comment added by jhalpin on January 13th, 2013
The directions above will find you pantyhose, but you will never find the ice!

Here is the Google Placemark:
<https://maps.google.com/maps/myplaces?hl=en&vpsrc=6&ctz=-540&ie=UTF8&ll=37.826887,127.002726&spn=0.008661,0 .01929&t=m&z=16&iwloc=lyrftr:starred_items:1166219 66175351127264:,37.827487*,127.005734,37.82748,127 .00573&start=0&geocode=FbxQOgIdlZOTBykb7LBQPFh7NTF ilxuNKE0HIA%3BFTAxQQIdtfSRBynDFuYXt8N8NTG3GY1D_B8x cw>

From the Bus 133 Bus Stop by the Hyundai Gas Station cross the street, go over the bridge and hang a left. Take the next left, then the next right. After this take your third right. This road will lead you to the ice. You can't see it until you are right there. It is about 2.5km from the bus stop or about a 45 minute walk.

Comment added by jhalpin on May 21st, 2014
Google Map Coordinates: 37.827314, 127.001224

Comment added by sparkyromad on January 22nd, 2018
This place is closed until someone can work out an agreement with yangu city hall.

Comment added by Ian on January 27th, 2020
Jan2020 Update. Climbing is open, but there are some access issues. Lots of ice climbers on the day I was there, and the climbing is good (for what a warm winter it has been). But halfway through the day a woman came up and started demanding people pay for parking their cars in the parking lot below (and on site). There didn't seem to be entire consensus from all as to whether they should pay or not. Lots of people paid just to keep the calm it seems. But some long-time climbers did not and said she could only charge those who parked at the lot (and no one could confirm that either, there was no sign).

Coordinates to the quarry itself (where the ice is): 37.827335, 127.005763

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