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KOTR is looking for a new owner. Are you a developer, a climber and have plans to stay in Korea for a while? If so, email me at [email protected]
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전주바위오름실내암장
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Bouldering gym in Jeonju, replacing Kim's and Jeonju Climbing Center as the only public gym in town. It's still pretty new, but large, with bouldering walls ranging from almost vertical to quite steep. Campus boards and hangboards. . . Some fitness machines, a belt massager, weight belts, changing room, magazine library.
Membership is W50,000 monthly and the gym is usually open. They generally do trips to local crags on Sunday.... [Read More]
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Jeonju Artificial Rock Climbing Wall
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With this wall, opened in 2008, Jeonju has joined the big leagues!!
Seventeen meters high, fully covered, with a little side wall for bouldering. . . it's open everyday. . . W1000 and equipment is available (check with the office in the back).... [Read More]
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Jeonju Climbing Center
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JCC IS NOW CLOSED 
Small, unassuming and tucked away, this gym is very basic-- the standard one story bouldering with a few holds on the ceiling.
전주클라이밍 센타 is home to 2 of Korea's top 10 ice climbers, however, and there are dry hooking routes!
Minimal English, but friendly climbers (김덕중, 최정길, 조덕규) who will work with very poor Korean. No landline phone or website. W30,000 a month. The gym is open primarily M-F 7-9... [Read More]
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Jeonju University Climbing Wall
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8 meters X 10 meters, but with various angles and route options. There are bolts every meter and several anchor options at the top. A 30 meter rope and 8 draws max are needed if you want to clip every meter.
It's brand new by Discovery Wall, 2007.... [Read More]
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Kim's Climbing School
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KIM'S IS NOW CLOSED
This isn't Seoul but taking advantage of limited space there are Bouldering options for every level and a few leading and ceiling routes. The gym is an A-frame structure on stilts with a loft in the center (roof problems available) and longer routes on either side.
Mr. Kim is very animated and speaks no English. You can climb as you like or let him train you! A few students and one older patron speak English. Otherwise, the climbers are friendly and range from beginner to competitve, but not elite. It's open M-F... [Read More]
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Maisan
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Conglomerate is the only way to describe this face. Mostly baseball size stones to microwave size stones stuck together by some glue. Most of the climbs are super juggy, similar to large holds you might find on a beginner wall at a climbing gym. A few of the harder routes have the big holds but they are sloppy and smooth. The bolts look good but a few of the anchors could be replaced. A 60 meter rope is recommended but not completely necessary. At least a dozen quickdraws. The climbs are really well protected and I don't think it would be... [Read More]
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Maisan / Yisan Myo
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As of 05/2010 all of Maisan Provincial Park has been declared by county officials as "off limits" to climbing. Clubs removed anchors and bolts at Opera House and the annex; as of today, gear was still at Albawi. Park officials told us and discussed the closures, noting that Yisan Myo was closed as well ("proximity to temples"). Walking in with gear and helmets obvious tipped us off. The office was prepared with info on other areas you could go climbing near-by.
I'm guessing at the grades, but they were easy. This would be a good pl... [Read More]
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New Millenium (새 천년)
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New Millenium is a 5 pitch trad route up one of the more beautiful ridges in Daedunsan Provincial Park. The first 3 pitches are less than vertical, with face and crack sections, and it finishes with 2 short slabby (though interesting) climbs. It's a route that's just challenging and thoughtful enough for experienced leaders and relative beginners to enjoy.
P1 40 meters 5.9 four bolts/additional gear possible. Mostly slabby. 15 meter rappel off the back to the next pitch. Good views of Sinseon Bawi to your left
P2 40 meters 80-90degrees ... [Read More]
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Sangsa Bawi (Halmae Bawi)
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Crumbly version of the local limestone, but slabby-vertical (the summit domes). Several bolted routes (2 pitches and a scramble-- roped-- to the summit). It's in the middle-of-farmland nowhere, but the small town life and quaint villages and farms definitely make this place worth checking out for lunch and for a drive, but not for the climbing!!
Couldn't see the anchors, but the rock was uninspiring. The routes are the main (L of the roof) face you see from the road. Don't know the grades (very broad guess).... [Read More]
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Seunim Bawi
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A 10a and 10b face and a bolted 10? crack (offwidth to almost chimney!). 15m, 7 bolts (plus anchors) max. Sometimes harsh (granite?) and some decent runout make the crack a very sporty crack and a bold lead for it's grade. Pretty vertical.
Max bolts, 6; typical triangle with rope/wire running through one good and one somewhat corroded bolts. A rope to assist a very steep, dodgy looking "walk off" to the right (we lowered, left a clippable rap ring).... [Read More]
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