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Bagaji Bawi
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Bagaji Bawi is all granite, some of it is solid and some is a little crumbly. There are about 2 dozen climbs here. One 5.8, three 5.9, twelve 5.10 and seven 5.11 climbs. Most of the climbs are under 30 meters though there are a few where a 60 meter rope is required.
One the left side of the wall there are a few slab climbs. As you move toward the right side of the wall there are some overhanging and face climbs.
Some of the bolts are a little old. Some of the rock a little rotten. Be careful on the right side of the wall. Lots of f... [Read More]
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Byeongpum Ahm - 병품암
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Natural ice fall approximately 45M with an anchor at the top and several trees to also build anchors from. This ice fall is not climbed too often due to the scrambly approach and lack of variety in climbing. There is a little bit of potential dry-tooling to the right of the main fall.... [Read More]
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Daejeon Climbing Center
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The Daejeon Climbing Center is a fairly large bouldering gym. It has lots of space and plenty of walls for beginners through advanced climbers. It boasts a couple ceilings and caves, a small weight room and stretching room, lockers, showers and about 15 different walls of varying sizes.
Everyone here is super friendly and usually organize weekend trips when the weather is good. The owner's name is Han Sang Hun.
OPEN:
Monday - Friday : 16:00 ~ 23:00
Saturday: 14:00 ~ 18:00
PRICE:
Middle/High School Students: 30,000
University S... [Read More]
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Daejeon Climbing Wall/ 대전 클라이밍 월
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This is the newest in climbing walls, having just been opened with a seriess of invite only comps on August 30th 2008; public usage from September 1st 2008. It's big. 18 metres high, with a giant all weather roofed cavern in the centre buttressed by jutting overhanging aretes on either side. The outer (left and right side) walls are vertical generally, though with bulges here and there. It's a tad intimidating in size and appearance, but really well designed and open to public use (free of charge) from dawn till dusk. Floodlights will be adde... [Read More]
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Dweiji Bawi (Pig Rock)- Daedunsan
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Grippy dark granite face climbing with a little slab and some crack features. A severe overhang cave for the insane (5.13s). About 20 routes all up, with the majority being in the 510a-10d range. Two new shiny metal info boards (about 40x25cm) are screwed onto the rock near either end of Dweiji Bawi and can give good exact rout info.... [Read More]
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Goryeo
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First of all, I have heard this rock called three different names. So last weekend I asked the man who bolted it what the name is and he said Goryeo. You might know it by something else.
This is some nice, fairly solid granite in Gyeryongsan National Park. There are actually three small climbing areas here. The first area you come to is a great place for beginners or to warm up. It's one climb on moderate slopping slab.
The second area has a multi-pitch climb. The first pitch is a mix of slab/face and is rated about 5.9. The seco... [Read More]
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Hwangjeok OB Slab
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Hwangjeok OB Slab is strictly granite slab with a few flakes and minor cracks. The quality of granite is excellent for slab climbing.The quality of the bolts are good. Anchors are safely threaded with clamped tight steel cables. There are four standard double-pitch routes in which the farthest two routes two-fold from atop the first pitch. The length of the routes are roughly twenty meters per pitch; both pitches could be climbed with a fifty meter rope. The climbs become progressively more difficult the farther left one moves from the right.... [Read More]
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Hwangjeok Pokpo
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This is a small wall, about 10-15 meters high and 20 meters wide. The ice on the gently sloping side is thick and solid. On the left hand side there are more interesting features to play around on if the ice is present.
You can fix anchors at the top of the climbs by hiking around the falls. At best 4-5 ropes could be climbed at the same cramped time.... [Read More]
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Sunny Rock 양지바위 Yangji Rock
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A "beginner area" on a slabby slab that's 15 minutes from the road (mostly sturdy stairs). There are about 6-7 routes, all pretty much the same. . . lots of frictiony slab with a little roof crux near the end. Chain anchors (need replacement quick links) and high first bolts (most routes only have 2-3 bolts). 30 meter routes, so tie a knot at the end of your rope! For bolts directly under the roof, bring a long sling-- the friction is great for feet, not-so-much for ropes!... [Read More]
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Yeong Dong Ice Park (영동 인공빙폭)
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This is a newly developed man-made ice wall about 40mins from Daejeon, in YeongDong Gun. It officially opens January 13th/14th 2007. It has been made by the combined efforts of Daejeon "Fifteen Climbing" Gym boss Han Sanghoon, some Daejeon climbers and some Yeong Dong climbers. Water pipes were rigged up a steep/overhung rock face and dripped, much like similar parks at Garebi, Inje and so on. It was hard work. A foot bridge over the river was also built by local Yeong Dong Gun government workers to replace the pontoon-boat device (see pics).
... [Read More]
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