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Hakampo Beach Sea Cliffs
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Very gneiss rock--very very solid for sea cliffs, from pretty much vertical to very overhanging. Most if not all the routes have overhanging starts, but several routes finish under the roofs. . .
There are twelve sport routes-- the easier ones are on the right. Features vary from faces, roofs, cracks and overhangs, with great friction and pumpy cruxes.... [Read More]
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Haksodae/Hwayang Valley
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Four sketchy routes put up in 1980 on the left wall of this "named" rock, one of the 8 scenic sights of Hwayang Valley. The middle routes are 10a, and on either side is a 5.9; all are 15 meters. 2 bolts/fixed gear (one on the far right 9) supplement the trad gear needed to protect the cracks. Vertical rock with some vertical and horizontal cracks, etc. . . very rainy when I was in the valley, so I didn't get too close or too good pictures
Nearby (in particular when you cross the 2nd bridge) and scattered throughout the valley are numerous ... [Read More]
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Halmae Bawi
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There are about 2 dozen climbs on this protruding rock face. Most of the climbs are from 5.10 to 5.12. The rock is limestone and a good portion of it is overhanging. Most of the routes are less than 15 meters high with a few exceptions. Most of the rock is of good quality, but some climbs have some loose rock as well as the only multi-pitch climb.
In sum, pumpy, overhanging, juggy, limestone climbs similar to climbs in Thailand or, a little closer to home, Seonunsan.... [Read More]
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Hanyang University 자연암장
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Granite aid/trad/sport practice wall smack in the "middle" of Seoul! There's a 5.10 sport route with artificial holds, an arching crack (under a roof) for aid or trad practice (two nuts and numerous pitons are fixed, but still some room to place small wires and maybe an alien. A short trail right from the staircase down would let you fix a TR, but except maybe the corner crack (a hard slabby near featureless route) there's little possibility.... [Read More]
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Hidden Wall (숨은벽)
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4 bolted routes and a lead-able crack (opportunity for additional pro exists) on a hard to get to face. The first two routes are nice lines-- a 5.10 route up a series of flakes and a 5.11 corner crack up a series of roofs-- the other 3 require some bushwhacking and start on less-than-ideal ground. Still, the face is so beautiful it gets it's own overlook!... [Read More]
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Horangsan Amjang
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The cliff band that overlooks Yeosu on Mt. Horang 호랑산 has two main crags. The first (and leftmost) is mostly overhanging with big roofs. A few cracks, dihedrals. . . and did I mention the roof? Further right is a more moderate face, slightly slabby, with a prominent (bolted) offwidth-to-chimney crack, a couple of lie-back cracks, but mostly crimpy and sidepull-ie face climbing. The harder routes are longer-- up to 33m? 13 bolts? where the easier crag is under 10 meters with a maximum 4 bolts. Some not-so-helpful topos and h... [Read More]
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Hwangjeok OB Slab
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Hwangjeok OB Slab is strictly granite slab with a few flakes and minor cracks. The quality of granite is excellent for slab climbing.The quality of the bolts are good. Anchors are safely threaded with clamped tight steel cables. There are four standard double-pitch routes in which the farthest two routes two-fold from atop the first pitch. The length of the routes are roughly twenty meters per pitch; both pitches could be climbed with a fifty meter rope. The climbs become progressively more difficult the farther left one moves from the right.... [Read More]
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Igidae
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Sea cliffs similar to those at Seongdo, but from what I can tell none of it has ever been climbed. At first glance I thought the rock would be a bit flakey, but after a few tests, it seemed pretty firm. Loads of pockets and jugs, roofs, aretes, the lot. A few of the climbs would have to be trad multi-pitch. I also think it would be fairly easy to put up a top rope on some of the smaller pitches.
At the base of the cliffs there are heaps of boulders. Lots with roofs and overhangs. Most have so many pockets they look like Swiss cheese, hard Sw... [Read More]
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Insu Bong
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Insubong is a magnificent granite peak that rests in the heart of Seoul. It boasts fifty- eight routes up to date. Routes are primarily slab and cracks with a few face and chimney climbs in between. Climbs range from one to eight pitches. The highest graded route is My Way(5.12b).... [Read More]
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Ipseokdae
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The prominent rock you'll see if you visit Ipseoksa (temple) is just the "tip of the iceberg", so to speak. Strolling along the boardwalk around the rock, you'll see some old pitons and evidence of early (aid?) ascents. The climbing is actually below this. Walk just beyond the turnoff to the rock and head down (if you continue straight instead of down when the path turns to dirt, you'll get to an ancient stone=carved Buddha relief). There are a handful (5?) bolted routes (10d, 11b, 12a, 10b, 10c) and some cracks (some with wooden wedges jammed ... [Read More]
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