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KOTR is looking for a new owner. Are you a developer, a climber and have plans to stay in Korea for a while? If so, email me at [email protected]
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Baekunsan Slab Rock
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Granite reminiscent of Pukhansan, these slabs dominate the valley wall opposite "Ice Valley", Gajisan Provincial Park. Developed in 1972 by Pusan and Taegu climbers, there are six routes on the lower slab (10d/10c/8/7/8/7) and seven on the upper (9/9/10b/10c/9/7/11a). Some are 2 pitches. Additionally, a short crack (1-2") on the left of the lower slab can be led and there's a fun boulder problem just right of that--with a Korean-style crash pad underneath. It looks like an old mattress spring, but it does the trick when you peel off the crimper... [Read More]
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Bagaji Bawi
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Bagaji Bawi is all granite, some of it is solid and some is a little crumbly. There are about 2 dozen climbs here. One 5.8, three 5.9, twelve 5.10 and seven 5.11 climbs. Most of the climbs are under 30 meters though there are a few where a 60 meter rope is required.
One the left side of the wall there are a few slab climbs. As you move toward the right side of the wall there are some overhanging and face climbs.
Some of the bolts are a little old. Some of the rock a little rotten. Be careful on the right side of the wall. Lots of f... [Read More]
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Bu Chae Bawi
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Near Dae Ryuk Bong in Busan. In fact, the directions are almost the same, save for a few minor details. The rock is granite, and there are two sides to the rock, one is the North Wall, and one is the South wall. 27 routes in all, which range from easy 5.8 to a 5.12a. Had I not purchased the Rock Climbing Guide (in Korean), I never knew this gem would have existed. It's face climbing with some cracks to jam your fists. The bolts are pretty new, but I have found some ancient ones from years gone by. There is also a great bouldering area during th... [Read More]
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Bueongsae Rock
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Vertical to overhanging, with some nice edges and crimpers and small roofs. On the low end, there are two 6m easy climbs-- a 5.7 and a 5.9, another short 10a and a 20 meter 10a--after that the routes get longer and harder (to a 29m 13b, one of three 5.13's in this rather compact crag!). There are 20 routes total; several share anchors. The names and grades are written at the base.
A Sport-y(capital S)-sport gem in an area better known for old trad, aid and ridge lines, it reminds me a little of Halmae Bawi, though it backs up to a romantic ... [Read More]
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Byeoncheonam
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Granite rock, most of it slight overhang. Route lenght up to 20m. The bolts seem to be in good shape, but the surrounding fauna deserves some treatment. There are 9 routes (see topo) and 2 more on the right side. Does not seem to be a crowded place.... [Read More]
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Byeong Bawi
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Similar to Halmaebawi and nearby. There are 4 routes in the 11c-d range (routes A-D). . . so not much variety. The limestone tower is hard-to-miss, with a scary overhanging outward face! Don't worry, the climbs are on the back.... [Read More]
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Byeong Pung Am
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Byeong Pung Am, located in the beautiful Mureung Valley, has about 18 routes, many of which are two pitch climbs. The rock is high friction (and somewhat sharp) granite. Most of the climbs have a bolt or three, but there are only three or four that are fully bolted. There are easily protected cracks, face climbing, and a couple of overhangs. Where the place really shines is in 5.9 cracks. They are Suweeeeet! The anchors are decent, although some of the less traveled climbs have ratty webbing- it wouldn't hurt to bring a knife and some fre... [Read More]
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Byeongpung Am, Bukhansan
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Granite slab with cracks and flakes up to 4 pitches. . . many routes require some aid. Byeongpung Am was developed from 1960-1970, mostly, with the right-most route put in 1990.
Some runout seems even worse due to sketchy pro and hollow sounding flakes.... [Read More]
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Byeongpung Rock
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The name 병풍 means "folding screen" and refers to the many faces, corners and cracks. Face and crack climbing, and surprise of surprises, the cracks are not bolted!! Medium to large pro is best if you want to try the cracks, or you could walk up the trail (right) and set up a TR (slings needed for trees, to rap to some of the anchors, a few accessible from the top). The rock was pretty gneiss? and unique for Korea, though in places wet (but not slippery), and in places quite sharp! One piton and bolts (most of the routes date to th... [Read More]
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Cheong Seok Gul
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Cheong Seok Gul is a small roadside crag. There are about 10 climbs on this sedimentary face. Most of the climbs are about 15 meters long. Almost all the climbs start on some degree of overhang. The anchors seem pretty good though a few of the bolts near the bottom of the climbs are bad. There is at least one anchor about 60 meters high, though I didn't climb the long pitch(s) to get there.
The easiest climb here is a 5.10c. After that there is a 5.10d, some 5.11a's and b's and then on to some harder 5.11's and a few 5.12's thrown in f... [Read More]
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