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KOTR is looking for a new owner. Are you a developer, a climber and have plans to stay in Korea for a while? If so, email me at [email protected]
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Soksal Bawi
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Mostly overhanging limestone rock. Some of the routes offer up friendly jugs, while others only provide the small crimper or slopper.
A good majority of the climbs are 5.11 and 5.12. There are a handful of beginner climbs and 5.10s. If you head to the large boulder to the right of the main wall you will find some easier climbs.
Behind the main wall, about a 5-8 minute hike is the 'Wind Tunnel'. The place looks like a cave where the top has been ripped off. Most of the climbs on these walls are 5.12 or 5.13. On summer days you can f... [Read More]
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Songgye
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There are 33 bolted routes that I found. One 5.9, a couple of 10a-c's and a bunch of more difficult stuff. All bolts are new. The anchors I encountered were hooks, but there might be some rings up there. So a sling wouldn't hurt. The rock granite. It's is a little sharp in places but overall it's pretty good. And some of the ratings seemed a bit steep. Both of the 10.a's work up an arete. And there is a very small cave that you can check out on one of the 10.d's.... [Read More]
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Songni-dong
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There are only 4 routes on this granite rock. The 3 slab routes do have new bolts and anchors, the one crack route has only one bolt (what I could tell from the bottom). Quality of rock seems to be very good and it's about 10-15m high.... [Read More]
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Soyo San
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chossy granite, a few decent overhangs mostly under one pitch. There are no bolts or anchors but many top rope problems and single pitch leads.... [Read More]
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SuAmBong
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A couple of short face climbs located in three different spots. grades and names are marked at the bottom of the climb. one bolted boulder as well. not bad if you live in the area.... [Read More]
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SUMEUN BYEOK
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All of the routes of Sumeun Byeok were developed by the Corean Alpine Club. Sumeun Byeok has seven routes ranging from 5.8 ~ 5.11b and A0, the most difficult route, S5, is 5.11b and A0 in difficulty. The longest routes, S6 & S7, are 75M in length. The routes are primarily all crack. Sumeun Byeok lays hidden between the NW ridges of Baekeun Dae and Insu Ridge, hence, Sumeun Byeok or Hidden Wall. The main headwall is the SW Face. The style of climbing is primarily all crack with some slab sections in between. Due to the approach, this area is far... [Read More]
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Sunny Rock 양지바위 Yangji Rock
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A "beginner area" on a slabby slab that's 15 minutes from the road (mostly sturdy stairs). There are about 6-7 routes, all pretty much the same. . . lots of frictiony slab with a little roof crux near the end. Chain anchors (need replacement quick links) and high first bolts (most routes only have 2-3 bolts). 30 meter routes, so tie a knot at the end of your rope! For bolts directly under the roof, bring a long sling-- the friction is great for feet, not-so-much for ropes!... [Read More]
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Suraksan Ujung Amjang (수락산 우정암장)
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A great place to practice for beginners and intermediates alike.
Slabs with 2 pitches.
Some routes are rated aid climbing
No need to bring protection, it's all bolted... [Read More]
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Suraksan, Daeju Amjang
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Granite slab to overhang, mostly face but some crack (including a 5.8 unbolted beauty and an amazing looking second pitch hand crack!) in NE Seoul. There's bulges, seams, roofs, corners-- the gamut of features on the face!
Suraksan Park is easy to overlook with Bukhansan nearby. There's nothing here to compare with Insubong or Seoninbong, but if you're looking to avoid the crowds. . . it's a pleasant park and a good training ground for it's bigger, more famous counterparts nearby. There are several crags in the park, but it's quite spread o... [Read More]
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